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Hot patterns armseye fix (Tip/Technique)
Viewed 5181 times
Review rated Helpful by 3 people   Very Helpful by 6 people   
Posted by: Deb Fox
About Deb Fox star
Member since: 8/26/05
Reviews written: 13
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 3 people
tips added: 1
Bio: more...
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Posted on: 5/19/06 11:02 AM
Featured in the PR book!
I love the Hot Patterns line, but have had a few problems with fitting. I got these strange wrinkles and folds radiating from the armseye to the shoulder front and back that I thought were because of a sloping shoulder. I did an adjustment for that, and still had those folds and wrinkles.

I recently bought the book Fitting and Pattern Alteration, a Multi-Method approach, and there were my wrinkles! It seems that it has to do with the arm joint, or simply put, the armseye is not deep enough.

What I did was draw a line from the notch down to about 2 inches below the underarm seam and then across to the side seam, cut that out and moved it down about 1/2 inch on the front and back bodice. I then slashed and added about 1/2 to the sleeve cap just under the notch, so that the adjusted areas were basically matching.

I did this basically according to the alterations recommended in this book. I did not think that adding this length above the notch would work, as that would put too much extra length in the upper chest for me.

Well, no more wrinkles, pulls, folds or otherwise. The side seam hangs smoothly, there are no buckles or bulges.

I know that some of you have had some difficulties with the armsye in the pattern line, and I wanted to offer you a suggestion for a fairly quick fix. Let me know if it works for you!

The higher armhole on these patterns is great, but I guess some of us just need a little extra depth!
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5 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
jbrewer said...
In the first step, which notch are you referring to? Is it the one in the sleeve seam? Are you, in effect, making the armhole bigger? If so, I think I get it. Thanks for the tip!
5/20/06 8:50 AM
Karla Kizer said...
I think this works for you because you lengthened the armhole *without* adding length to the chest area above the bust. It's a good suggestion for all of us. Thank you.
5/20/06 12:53 PM
Deb Fox said...
Sorry, I should be more specific about what notch! I am referring to the front and back notch in the armseye, and the corresponding notches on the sleeve cap. What I did was basically elongate the armhole, and lengthen the sleeve cap to match.
5/20/06 2:29 PM
Mary Stiefer said...
Thanks for this tip. It isn't only Hot Patterns designs that have this problem.
5/21/06 10:32 AM
mrspenguin said...
For some reason, thinking through armscye adjustments is the hardest thing for me. Thanks for your easy to follow tip.
5/31/06 10:37 AM

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