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Tips & Techniques > Narrow upper back adjust for raglan sleeves

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Posted by: Debra H

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Posted on: 7/29/06 9:45 AM
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 3 people   
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The diagram from a Burda Magazine section from July 05 provided good information on making narrow upper back adjustments for several types of pattern backs. I was asked to provide directions for doing this with raglan sleeve tops. As you can see from the diagram, you need to align the back pattern piece with the adjoining raglan sleeve piece. As shown on the diagram, mark a line from the top shoulder seam edge of the sleeve all the way down to just below the armhole, crossing over from one piece to the other. Then, pivot 90 degrees to draw a line to the side seam just below the armhole.
Starting with the back raglan sleeve piece, clip that mark from where it joins the back up to, BUT not through, the shoulder seam edge. Pivot the piece inward to take out as much as you need to remove and tape it. This far up the back, I do not need to take out as much here as in the piece below. So, so I usually pivot this piece in to overlap about 1/4" to 3/8" at the lower edge along the seamline where it joins the back piece.
Next, move to the back piece you just marked. Cut that piece out entirely. Overlap the upper edge the same amount as you did the raglan piece above...but make sure you are doing this at the point where these pieces join, not the outer edges of the seam allowance. Tape that upper edge where you need it to be, then pivot that 90 corner to overlap the amount that you need for your adjustment. I usually have to overlap about 1/2". Tape in place.
If you can see them, the second photo in the diagram provided shows some red lines to indicate evening out the raglan seam edges on both pieces AND also shaving off the side seam below your new adjustment. Because I have rather squared shoulders, I find that I also have to redraw the shoulder curve of the raglan sleeve piece since it has been pulled down and in some. Most people will not need to do this.
Hope this helps folks who have asked about this.

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Ashford said...
Has the photo been moved? The error message says: You have reached this page in Error or the page you where looking for was not found.
10/24/11 12:12 PM
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