|Regarding a book review I recently posted, Femme had made a comment about wanting to know more about the bias tape techniques used by the designer Koos. The techniques are described in more detail in the book, but here is some basic information. First, a quote from the book:
"A distnctive element of Koos's signature style includes bias tape. Bias tape is an integral part of his collage. It's used as a finished edge, as a decorative free-form line or as the outline of an appliqued piece."
Bias is made of woven cotton, silk or rayon. Finished width 3/8" to 1/2" wide. It is a single fold bias tape. Every season, Koos selects several fabrics in neutral and accent colors, then has several yards of bias tape made commercially (wouldn't that be nice!). For smaller amounts a bias tapemaker by Clover is used.
To attach bias tape to a garment (ex, a circle): Pin the tape around the outer edge first, then steam until it lies flat. From the photos, the pins appear to be glass headed pins. Stitch close to both edges. In the accompanying photos, a circle was attached to the garment, then the bias tape was pinned on as described, then sewn.
Edge binding: Make 1" wide single fold bias tape. Then, fold it in half lengthwise and press. Open out one long edge and place the cut edge even with the wrong side of the garment. Right side of bias tape and wrong side of garment are together. Sew along the first fold line of the bias tape. Fold tape over edge and edge stitch down on the right side of the garment.