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Tips & Techniques > Adriana Lucas

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Posted by: MaryBeth

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Member since: 1/1/03
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Posted on: 2/25/03 0:10 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 10 people   
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David Page Coffin' book, on page 105-106 describes Adriana Lucas's method for turning collar points. Adriana Lucas, "a master shirtmaker in NYC", turns by hand. She stitches to the collar point, turns and stitches up the side of the collar, leaving a very sharp point. Then she closely trims the interfacing only at the point and a tiny bit on each side of the stitching. She folds the point down and pinches tight, creasing the tip. She then folds in each side seam over the tightly held point and pinches these folds again very tightly. Holding the collar point and folded side seams between her forefinger and thumb the collar is turned right side out. Using a needle the fabric left inside the point is gently coaxed out to form the point.
Using this method I formed the sharpest, easiest points I have ever done, very much to my surprise. I tried an alternative method of poking the fabric from the inside to form the point and got a rounded blob that I had to fix using Ms. Lucas's method! Guess I'll retire my orange stick back to the nail kit.

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Wianno Girl said... (7/16/07 12:08 PM) Reply
I will do it next time I do a collar.
mClones said... (9/2/04 9:38 PM) Reply
Thanks for sharing that, MaryBeth. It works like a dream and it is so easy! Mina
teryl said... (6/22/04 4:03 PM) Reply
Try holding the folded point with a pair of forceps
Rustybobn said... (2/26/03 11:55 AM) Reply
Perhaps it's the "pinching hard" part where I'm failing! The rest, including the "tease the point out from the right side" I can do! Thanks MaryBeth!
MaryBeth said... (2/26/03 2:25 AM) Reply
OK, Rustybobn, you're pinching all three with your right hand (if you're right handed). Transfer the pinched material off to your left hand by placing your left thumb up inside (in between the front) and back) and your left forefinger on the outside. Still pinching hard, use your right hand to lift and turn the collar rightside out. Squiggle your pinched material as far into the point as possible, not releasing the pinch until you're sure you've gone as far as you can. Hopefully you've maintained the nice folding job and can tease the point out from the right side. Whew! hope this helps!
LoriB said... (2/25/03 5:11 PM) Reply
I'm going to try this next time I do a collar. I've seen this referred to as an "oragami" method and the person used tweezers to hold onto the folded seam allowance when it was turned inside out.
Loreli said... (2/25/03 12:39 PM) Reply
Thanks MaryBeth, you explained it very clear because I didnīt understand exactly what was meant in the book. I try it out on the next collar.
Rustybobn said... (2/25/03 11:19 AM) Reply
MaryBeth, I've tried and tried to do this but can never hold onto the points while I turn the collar. Is there a special trick to it?
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