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Tips & Techniques > broad bicep alteration for sleeves

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Posted by: KiwiWendy

About KiwiWendy starstarstar
Member since: 8/24/02
Reviews: 114 (tips: 1)
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Posted on: 4/27/07 0:44 AM
Last Updated: 10/8/12 2:48 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 10 people   
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This sleeve alteration is from the Singer book "The Perfect Fit".

Even when I wasn't overweight, my beefy biceps meant that sleeves were always too tight. I find for my beefy arms that this is the best method of altering the pattern.

Draw a line across the sleeve, around 1" below the sleeve cap. Draw another line parallel to it around 4" higher. Divide the sleeve cap evenly into 3 and spread the outside segments by the amount needed. True the lines, smoothly.

This can be personalised, for example I add more to the sleeve back than the sleeve front.

If there is too much ease in the sleeve cap, you can add a small amount to the bodice side seams, tapering to nothing a couple of inches below the armscye.

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KiwiWendy said... (10/8/12 2:52 AM) Reply
Leslie in Austin, I have to add 3cm or about 1.25" to my sleeves and the slash & spread technique in FFRP drops the sleeve head far too much for my arm. It's longer over the mountain from bicep to shoulder too! I'm able to ease the excess in without any trouble .. though I mainly use linen or cotton and never polyester.
Annette1 said... (1/19/09 1:10 AM) Reply
Oooo, can't wait to try this one, since this alteration is just a GIVEN with me. Thanks!
meanjean said... (5/6/07 8:25 AM) Reply
Great tip. I've tried every method of altering for a large bicep and have had the most success with this one. I had read a post of yours a long time ago about adding more to he back of the sleeve, tried it, and it worked great.
Elaine Dougan said... (4/30/07 10:36 PM) Reply
I, too, have a problem with large biceps. If you use the slice and pivot method I think it draws the sleeve cap down. As well as needing the larger bicep, I also need a longer sleeve cap so it seems that no matter what method is chosen, it presents another problem.
Leslie in Austin said... (4/28/07 2:37 PM) Reply
I'm all about the slice and slide method of alterations--as a fan of Jan Minott, I use them all the time--but doesn't this adjustment change the length of the armscye seam enough to set off a chain reaction of adjustments needed? Coincidentally, I was doing a little electronic housekeeping of my files this morning and ran across this bicep alteration that I'm sure someone on PR suggested to me: slice and pivot method, where the hinge is at the top of the red line at the armscye seam allowance. Just thinking out loud....
beangirl said... (4/28/07 2:09 PM) Reply
Thanks for this one KW, I don't get very good results from the slash-and-spread method that's used in FFRP and FF. I'm going to try this one next!
Sewnla said... (4/28/07 12:10 PM) Reply
Thanks for the tip. I too find that sleeves are too tight in the bicep area. I'm going to use your technique next time!
Mufffet said... (4/27/07 10:19 AM) Reply
Excellent tip! Thanks - I always need this too. :)
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