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Tips & Techniques > Adapting a woven pattern to a knit

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Posted by: LauraLo

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Posted on: 6/15/07 7:50 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 11 people   
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The idea to write this tip came to me after reading many reviews for the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan Dress, where many people complained about the neckline being too low, neckline gaposis etc.

Now, I think that the Cosmopolitan Dress is designed for wovens or for knits/jersey with very little stretch. If you make this pattern out of a cotton/lycra, for instance, the fabric being considerably stretchier, you will end up with a garment which is too big and experience neckline and armhole gaposis.

The simplest solution is to trace one or two sizes down. But if you're already a Slinky Girl 6 in Hot Patterns (like I am), the best solution is to "scale" the pattern.

In order to do this, you have to know first the stretch factor. Cut a square of 10x10 cm out of your fashion fabric. Stretch the horizontal line of the square as much as you can, without forcing it and measure it. Let's say it is 15 cm. Your horizontal stretch/scale factor is your initial 10 cm divided by the 15 = 0.66.

Do the same vertically. Now, If you're lucky, you get the same stretch factor and you can get a new pattern by taking it to a copy machine and programme it for a 0.66 scaled copy.

If you're not lucky and you have different stretch factors horizontally and vertically, then you have to redesign your pattern. You can either do that using CAD patternmaking software and a scan of your pattern pieces. Or you can do it manually, by tracing helping lines both horizontally and vertically and reducing those lines by the stretch factor. Thus, a line of 30 cm will become in the new pattern 30x0.66=19.8 and so on.

If you want, it's similar to enlarging patterns by using a grid, only now you're reducing the pattern.

Hope that helps and it is clear enough. I'll try and make a photo tutorial if you're interested.

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LauraLo said... (6/16/07 5:13 AM) Reply
Yes, I think it might work but in my opinion, only if the pattern has darts. If not, you will get fitting issues, like fabric not "cupping" your body as it should.
The Rock said... (6/15/07 11:25 AM) Reply
I found this information helpful and I assume this could also apply in the reverse. Meaning, if the pattern calls for woven or moderate stretch knit fabric and you want to use a non-woven.
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