|This technique was featured in Sew News, March 1998 and I have used it ever since. What I like best is the top stitching and the no-bulk results.
Once you have tried this technique, I think you too will be happy with the results.
These instructions are for an in-seam pocket in pants or skirt, but could be adapted for other garments where a side pocket is desired.
Mark the pocket opening on the garment and pocket pieces so you can identify it later (small clips or tailor's tacks).
After cutting out your garment, align the pocket pieces according to the pattern directions (matching notches/dots), then sew (front pocket piece to front of garment/back pocket piece to back of garment) using a 1/2" seam allowance.
Press the seams flat and bring the pocket pieces over the seam allowances (away from the garment) and lightly press.
With right sides together and pockets pinned out of the way, keeping the pocket seams aligned (baste if you wish, to keep the pockets from shifting), sew the garment front and back together - above and below the clips/tailor's tacks using a 5/8" seam allowance. If you basted, remove the basting.
Top-stitching will be 1/4" from the top of the pocket opening, down the front edge of the pocket opening to 1/4' below the bottom of the pocket opening on the front of the garment.
Spread the pocket pieces open so they lie flat against the garment - front pocket piece to front of garment and back pocket piece to back of garment.
Lightly press the front pocket fold line. Pin the front pocket piece to the front of the garment so it is smooth and out of the way. Do the same for the back pocket. This will keep the pockets from getting caught in the top-stitching.
Begin stitching 1/4" from the side seam line and 1/4" from the top of the pocket opening. Back-stitch for reinforcement. Stitch forward, pivot and stitch 1/4' from the edge of the pocket opening, to 1/4" below the pocket opening. Pivot and stitch to the side seam, back-stitching to reinforce the stitching.
On the inside of the garment, align the pockets and stitch, to within 1/4" of the side seam at the lower edge of the pocket. This will allow the side seam of the garment to lie flatter.
Continue with the construction of the garment according to the pattern directions.
This is wordy, but I could not figure out a way to include the graphics.