|I wrote on my blog, in a post about learning from RTW: taking apart my favorite jacket (see it here: http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2007/09/learning-from-rtw-deconstructing-jacket.html, if you want), about how I interface hems (all the hems) way beyond the foldline (about 2 inches).
Why do I do this and think it is important to do it:
- first, let me quote Kathleen Fasanella, she says it so much better than me: "When you're fusing a line that will be folded -say a hem, or a vent- your fusible should cross the fold line. Do not -I repeat- do not have the interfacing end right at the fold line (which is what's done in home sewing patterns). Extending the fusible one half inch beyond the fold line will extend the life of a garment. If you don't extend the fusible and you fail to line up the fusible with the fold line exactly, it can throw off your fold line as I'm sure you've noticed. A fold in fabric is a stressed region, cushion it for longer life."
Read the entire article of KF, under the title of Interfacing: 10 tips here: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/interfacing_10_tips.html
- second, as Sandra Betzina explains, in her Power Sewing book, by interfacing past the foldline, the hem allowance won't show on the right side of the garment, plus you can sew a truly invisible hem without any effort, because you will catch in your blindstitch a thread of the interfacing instead of the fashion fabric. Thus you anchor the hem to the interfacing and nothing, absolutely nothing, shows on the outside.