I teach a fitting class and this is what I think is crucial.
First of all, Fit as you sew. Do not just sew up a garment entirely and wish for the best as many sewing students do.
You should be fitting at least 3 times minimum while there is still time to make adjustments. The shoulder area tends to be a problem area (usually too long) and can be easily remedied by trimming. Sleeve will still fit in, if not to drastic of a change.
Try a garment right side out first to get an idea of how things are fitting. Then turn the garment inside out and start marking with pins where you need to make changes while you are wearing it. This makes it easier for you.
Sew'n'go said... I like that you are teaching fitting. From my experience, poor fit has caused most of my disappointment in my finished garments. Years ago, I wore my new bellbottom jeans inside out and had a friend pin up the hem. One leg was a good inch too short (TRAGEDY in the mid 70's). I thought I had goofed somehow and did it with another pair of jeans. Same result. Belatedly the light went off - one leg was 1/2" longer than the other. Nowadays, I realize it is more than just one leg - one shoulder is longer (3/4") and higher, one hip is higher, etc. Fitting my clothes by pinning an inside out garment wouldn't work for me, but it would for a more symmetrical person. However, inside-out is a great, fast fitting method (for more even bodies) and I'm all for that! For me, I baste the seams on the right side of the garment and fit from there. 1/13/08 1:32 PM
ginaT said... This is a good tip and have tried it myself but just thought it was me being quirky until i saw a celebrity bridal designer do just that when fitting a bodice with princess seams on a bride on a reality tv show.The dress had to be fitted and finished quickly and it was facinating to watch the progress.I think it works well for tops and dresses and have even tried it out on my dress form too. 1/13/08 7:00 PM
MaryFran said... Thank you ! Great tip! 1/13/08 7:16 PM
Lorna C. Newman said... Assymetrical bodies can also use this method. When pinning the fabric, pin the garments WS together with the seam allowance outside. When you have to mark changes, do it inside the seam allowance so that you are marking the WS, not the RS of the fabric. As someone with uneven hips, it is easy to do this way. 1/14/08 8:50 AM
ryansmumAria said... LOrna, I agree, this method is useable for all body types. 1/14/08 10:12 PM
KempCorr said... Great comments on how to handle asymetrical bodies. 1/16/08 7:14 PM
JeanM said... I agree, good tip! In the last year, I've switch to using swedish tracing paper: trace my pattern, pin-fit the tracing, and adjust from there. Once I'm happy with that, then I cut fabric, and pin fit that - usually at least twice as I go, as sewing seams can change the fit. It has kept me from sewing a couple of disasters so far. 1/16/08 11:17 PM
Sew'n'go said... Lorna, I think we said the same thing! I said baste the seams on the right side of the garment, you said put wrong sides together. Great minds think alike. :-) Having a system to fit the actual garment to the actual body is the best way to get great looking finished garments. 1/18/08 12:09 PM
utz said... Lorna, I do the same thing for my assymetry. Pin wrong sides together (which is essentially a version of this tip). Once I find the seam 'line' for fitting I mark it then fold the fabric inside as if I'm going to do slip stitching from the outside. I pin this flat against the body, smoothing as I go. (It now looks like a sewn seam) And if I'm in really rough territory, I slipstitch from outside which gives a line of stitches you can follow as you sew. Fitting as you go is everything I think. Thanks for the tip! 1/20/08 9:15 AM
I like that you are teaching fitting. From my experience, poor fit has caused most of my disappointment in my finished garments. Years ago, I wore my new bellbottom jeans inside out and had a friend pin up the hem. One leg was a good inch too short (TRAGEDY in the mid 70's). I thought I had goofed somehow and did it with another pair of jeans. Same result. Belatedly the light went off - one leg was 1/2" longer than the other. Nowadays, I realize it is more than just one leg - one shoulder is longer (3/4") and higher, one hip is higher, etc. Fitting my clothes by pinning an inside out garment wouldn't work for me, but it would for a more symmetrical person. However, inside-out is a great, fast fitting method (for more even bodies) and I'm all for that! For me, I baste the seams on the right side of the garment and fit from there.
1/13/08 1:32 PM
This is a good tip and have tried it myself but just thought it was me being quirky until i saw a celebrity bridal designer do just that when fitting a bodice with princess seams on a bride on a reality tv show.The dress had to be fitted and finished quickly and it was facinating to watch the progress.I think it works well for tops and dresses and have even tried it out on my dress form too.
1/13/08 7:00 PM
Thank you ! Great tip!
1/13/08 7:16 PM
Assymetrical bodies can also use this method. When pinning the fabric, pin the garments WS together with the seam allowance outside. When you have to mark changes, do it inside the seam allowance so that you are marking the WS, not the RS of the fabric. As someone with uneven hips, it is easy to do this way.
1/14/08 8:50 AM
LOrna, I agree, this method is useable for all body types.
1/14/08 10:12 PM
Great comments on how to handle asymetrical bodies.
1/16/08 7:14 PM
I agree, good tip! In the last year, I've switch to using swedish tracing paper: trace my pattern, pin-fit the tracing, and adjust from there. Once I'm happy with that, then I cut fabric, and pin fit that - usually at least twice as I go, as sewing seams can change the fit. It has kept me from sewing a couple of disasters so far.
1/16/08 11:17 PM
Lorna, I think we said the same thing! I said baste the seams on the right side of the garment, you said put wrong sides together. Great minds think alike. :-) Having a system to fit the actual garment to the actual body is the best way to get great looking finished garments.
1/18/08 12:09 PM
Lorna, I do the same thing for my assymetry. Pin wrong sides together (which is essentially a version of this tip). Once I find the seam 'line' for fitting I mark it then fold the fabric inside as if I'm going to do slip stitching from the outside. I pin this flat against the body, smoothing as I go. (It now looks like a sewn seam) And if I'm in really rough territory, I slipstitch from outside which gives a line of stitches you can follow as you sew. Fitting as you go is everything I think. Thanks for the tip!
1/20/08 9:15 AM