| In the throes of sewing up the much reviewed KS wrap top, I found the common complaint was that the top gaped at the CF where the two layers met. I used a tip from the Palmer Pletsch "Fit for Real People" book. To stabilize the seam, I sewed stay tape on the seamline. In order to make the fit a bit more snug, cut the tape 1/8" shorter than the seamline and ease to fit. Unfortunately for all you Steam a Seam fans, this only works with sew in tape. I found that the two layers fit sung against my chest and did not gape open. This technique is also recommended in the P/P pant patterns for use on their pockets. I guess it would work on any bias edge. |
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Lorna, I agree that this is a great method for necklines and pockets, one I use any time slanted (almost bias) edges are involved. But take heart, SAS fans: it can be adapted to an iron-on version. I have applied SAS to Stay-Tape (could also be twill or hem tape), steamed the cut edge of the fabric into the appropriate shape and size, and ironed my home-made fusible tape in place. It's usually faster and easier to use the stitch-in-place technique that Lorna describes, but when I don't want stitches to show (for example, on the roll-line of a jacket collar), it's SAS to the rescue. Thanks for reminding all of us how much this technique can help with fitting, Lorna.
4/4/03 11:24 PM
This is a great technique. It is also used on armholes to prevent gaping in vests!
4/13/06 8:58 PM
fantastic idea - i'm making a dress with a woven crossover, and it comes to a V in the front neck - i've been tearing my hair out on my toile to work out how to join my lining without ripping the fabric! i think this tip will just do the job! thanks
6/30/10 11:52 AM