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Tips & Techniques > BWOF Size Lines HEADS-UP

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Posted by: SewFar

About SewFar star
Member since: 4/19/06
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Posted on: 5/8/08 1:19 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 27 people   
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It seems there are many PatternReview members who, like me, are new to sewing with Burda World of Fashion magazine (BWOF) patterns. A search of the PR tips and message boards didn't turn up this gem of a tidbit among the wealth of info, so I hope it's timely, helpful, and not a repeat. (Or worse, I completely missed the boat and it's entirely widely known and taken for granted!)

I recently made my first BWOF pattern: 03-2008-108, a fitted blouse. After I determined my size (40) and looked up the pattern key (which, in addition to which line style to trace for your size, tells you what color of lines to look for on which lettered sheet as well as the pattern piece numbers for your garment), I reminded myself as I traced each pattern piece, 'My BWOF tracing line is the long dash - short dash.'

I decided to use the lower sleeves from a different BWOF pattern from the same issue and breezily traced the pattern piece in a size 40 or so I thought. It wasn't till the construction stage that I noticed something wasn't quite right. When I pulled out the master pattern sheet to check, I was surprised to find that the size 40 tracing lines changed from one pattern to the next, even within the same issue! I had, in fact, cut a size 42 in the second pattern.

As an example:
03-2008-108 Size 40 :
03-2008-117 Size 40 : – – – – – – – – – – – – –
03-2008-104 Size 40 : ----------------------------
(Will be back to post clearer scan of pattern keys to illustrate)
This inconsistency is consistent (!) from issue to issue.

While it was easy to trace off the correct lower sleeve piece, trim the already cut fabric piece, and carry on, it would have been a different story had it involved a more detailed or major pattern piece requiring accurate matching, or if it had necessitated recutting a sizeable piece from limited yardage of fashion fabric, for example.

(If this is news to others than just me, I'll post it in the pinned Burda WOF - General Info and Tips thread on the message board. Keeping this info in mind could be a real grief-saver whether trying a BWOF pattern for the first time or mixing and matching BWOF design components.)

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Sassy T said... (7/20/12 12:26 PM) Reply
Interesting to know since am about to trace my first. A liitle daunting to say the least.
Gelbean said... (5/18/08 2:04 AM) Reply
Wow! I had no idea. I only sewed up my first BWOF pattern a few weeks ago. I'm glad I read this before I started on my next one. Thanks!
solosmocker said... (5/12/08 12:37 PM) Reply
This is definitely a mistake I would have made. Thanks for the heads up as I am close to taking the plunge.
MelC said... (5/9/08 9:02 PM) Reply
I haven't sewn with BWOF very much yet but this problem was one waiting to happen. Many thanks for the heads up!
Patzee said... (5/9/08 4:55 PM) Reply
Thanks -- good tip!
pencildancer said... (5/9/08 9:36 AM) Reply
No wonder I've been having trouble with fitting from this magazine! I've been going by those lines! Thanks for this information.
Vintage Joan said... (5/8/08 7:59 PM) Reply
I'm sorry this happened to you! This isn't an inconsistency, though. The dashes etc. aren't meant to be universally associated with a certain size. A particular type of line means, for example, third size up from the beginning. On a pattern where the smallest size is size 36, the third size up is 40 -- but if the smallest size is 38, the third size up is 42.... etc. In the instructions for each pattern, there's a little chart inside a box. It shows what type of line is used on the pattern to mean a particular size. You should check this each time, because the marks always go up from smallest to largest size, but not all patterns have the same size range. Incidentally, New Look also uses different dots/dashes to show each size. I don't think they universally mean the same size either, just smallest to largest.
Sarah J Doyle said... (5/8/08 5:11 PM) Reply
YIKES! I'd have thought the line markings would be consistent from pattern to pattern. Thanks for the tip!
Peacock Chic said... (5/8/08 4:35 PM) Reply
wow I didn't know that either
busy bee said... (5/8/08 2:01 PM) Reply
Thanks for the tidbit! I didn't know that!
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