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facing tips (Tip/Technique)
Viewed 5374 times
Review rated Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 14 people   
Posted by: Nancywin
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Member since: 7/25/06
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Posted on: 7/28/08 0:04 AM
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Neckline facings can make or break a neckline, depending on how well they are done. Here is the method I use to get a nice, flat facing. (I use the same method for sleeves, but usually prefer to bind sleeve edges.)

1. Attach front and back facings at the shoulder seams. They should already be interfaced if you are using it.

2. I use a serger to clean finish the outside edge. This gives a much flatter finish than turning under and stitching.

3. Attach the facing to the neckline, making sure to have centers, and any other markings alligned.

4. Trim the seam allowance, holding your scissors at a bit of an angle in order to "grade" them. This means that one sa will be slightly narrower than the other.

5. Clip all the curves close to stitching, cutting at an angle (on the bias) Dont be afraid to have too many clip marks; they will give you a smoother seam.

6. press the seam allowance toward the facing. It is best to do this over a ham. If you do not have a ham, use a sleeve board, seam roll, or the edge of your ironing board. Do this carefully so as to have a smooth seam

7. Understitch. I use a blind hem foot to do this
. The blade runs in the seam line while the needle is just over enough to stitch the sa to the facing

8. Turn the facing to the inside and press again (using the ham, of course) While doing this, roll the seam line slightly to the inside with your fingers.

9. Press again from the right side.

10. Tack down the facing at the shoulder seams and any other seams you have available. I will often use something like Steam A Seam to tack down the facing in the front and back. TEST FIRST TO MAKE SURE IT WILL NOT SHOW OR PULL ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE GARMENT.

You should now have a beautiful facing!
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7 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
j222b said...
Thanks. One thing I read years ago & do is: #5 when I'm clipping "all the curves close to the stitching", I clip one layer of the SA fabric at a time. This helps prevent clipping into the garment. I like your idea of bias clips on the SA-I will try that one!!
7/28/08 1:33 PM
Nancywin said...
Thanks for the reminder - it is always better to clip ea seam allowance separately. Clips done on the bias don't ravel like they would on cross grain.
7/28/08 6:49 PM
SandraB said...
I agree that this method really does give a nice finish. I have never tried the steam a seam though. I will give this a try.
7/28/08 8:44 PM
fryman said...
using the blindhem foot for understitching is a great tip Thanks!!
7/29/08 9:11 AM
Cherr said...
Thanks for the closeup picture. That was very helpful. Really good idea about the steam-a-seam also. I will try that!
7/29/08 10:04 AM
sotogo said...
I am about to sew a lightweight top and this will help very much when doing the neckline. Thanks.
7/29/08 5:47 PM
cindyann said...
This is how I also tackle my facings, but the idea to use the blind hem foot is just fantastic.
8/2/08 11:09 AM

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