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Tips & Techniques > Fusible Interfacing - awesome method!

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Posted by: newlywedws
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Posted on: 8/30/08 11:19 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 4 people   Very Helpful by 16 people   
Often times when you use a pattern piece and cut out material, and then you use the same pattern piece to cut out interfacing you have to trim the interfacing and HOPE that the first trimming takes, where you don't have to do another round of trimming.

I've discovered a quicker method!!

First cut out the pattern pieces that do NOT require interfacing, then take an amount* of fusible interfacing, and iron it to the remaining fabric**, now all you have to do is cut out the pattern pieces that DO require interfacing. This method will save you from the extra chores of cutting the interfacing separately and trimming it.

*The amount of interfacing used, is based upon the size of the pattern pieces requiring interfacing. Obviously this will only work for fusible interfacing

**I prefer to set aside an amount of fabric exclusively for the purpose of ironing interfacing to the fabric, like if it's only two small pieces, I'll probably place the pattern down, for a quick visual (making sure the grainline is the right way) and then will cut the fabric off and fuse the interfacing to it.

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11 Comments
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petro said...
That's an interesting idea. Making my own patterns I usually work with the net pattern - ie no turnings. This means that the interfacing pieces are cut the size that they finish, and there's no trimming. Likewise, I cut a narrow seam allowance on those areas where there will be interfacing. Your idea would definitely cut out a stage when working from a commercial pattern, as well as making fusing easier and avoiding the opportunity for the facing piece to distort itself between cutting and fusing. I think this aspect of the idea would adapt to my process, I could cut my facing fusible, fuse it down onto a larger piece, then cut round with s.a. for the facing piece itself.
8/31/08 4:07 AM
SewVeryTall said...
If a person had a commercial-type press, this might save time [pressing fusible yardage to fabric yardage with a regular iron is quite time consuming]. But the problem I see is that the interfacing isn't supposed to extend into the full seam allowance, or to the edge of the fabric. This causes extra bulk/stiffness in the seam allowances, which is why the interfacing is supposed to be trimmed, so only 1/8 inch of it is past the stitching, in the seam allowance.
8/31/08 8:19 AM
ryansmumAria said...
I love sharp edges at strategic places and have found that this is an excellent technique for it. I find that in most cases this helps your seams especially with purses. (However, I do eliminate the seam allowance when using fusible fleece as it is very thick, indeed, and does interfere with sewing properly. ) I teach my students to do this (your technique) and find it produces excellent results as long as it is a lightweight interfacing - I love fusi-knit which is so light, it floats. I even go so far as to interface my seam allowances with strips of 1/2 inch interfacing ironed to produce seams. You can see it here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/28702589@N05/2681383038/ Having interfaced seams is done in some better ready to wear. I have a pair of $100 dollar pants that I was examining and found this done on tropical linen pants! It inspired me to try it out and after testing it out I understood why this is done! Here is a wonderful tutorial by gigi on this technique called block fusing as it is called in the garment industry. I've never seen bulky seams by using this technique ever. http://gigisews.blogspot.com/2006/06/block-fusing.html Thanks for sharing this excellent tip!
8/31/08 12:05 PM
kathyw said...
Actually, this message is timely because I just did it to an entire jacket pattern. I think this is what is referred to as "block fusing", and since my fabric was VERY loosely woven, sort of like a boucle, and would need fusing everywhere, it made sense to fuse it first and then cut. I even finally got my ironing fuse to do it faster! Unfortunately, because it was so loose, and I wasn't paying attention, I messed up the grain lines a little as I did it, and it's fused in place that way, but doesn't look like it will be a problem.
8/31/08 1:44 PM
Nancy Anne said...
I've thought about doing this in the past, but the thing that always stops me is not wanting the interfacting between the pieces to stick to the ironing board. Are you putting something down between the board and the interfacing?
8/31/08 11:22 PM
newlywedws said...
Nancy...when I use this method - the interfacing only adheres to the fabric...for example, if your fabric is 12"x12" then you would want your interfacing to be about 11"x11" - so the interfacing only sticks to the fabric, after you've fused it, THEN you cut out the pieces needed (front, back neckline facing, etc.,)
9/1/08 8:51 PM
SewVeryTall said...
ryansmum...the reason they did that on your RTW linen pant's seams, is because it was linen. This is done on silk too, to strengthen the seams. It is also done on the zipper area for reinforcement, on thin, stretchy, bias-cut, or loosely woven fabrics. Also, you are NOT supposed to cut off 1/8"...if your seam allowances [SA] are 5/8", you should cut off 1/2" of the interfacing's SA, leaving 1/8" of the interfacing in the SA. Just to be extra clear, for beginners. As with anything, though, there are exceptions to every rule. If you want or need stiff bulky SAs, ignore the rule.
9/9/08 8:38 AM
GorgeousFabrics said...
This is a great idea. When I was manufacturing handbags, I always used block-fused fabrics and never had a problem with bulk in the seams. The garment industry now uses block-fused fabrics for so many different types of garments, ranging from lightweight knits to outerwear. The interfacing fabrics and glue technologies have come so far since "the good old days" that you really don't have as many worries about bulk. You do need to use a good interfacing. I get all mine from Pam Erny at Fashion Sewing Supply (NAYY, just a very happy customer). Her interfacings are great for block fusing. I've also heard great things about Peggy Sagers' interfacings and Nancy Ericson's.
9/9/08 10:54 AM
Calvin's grandma said...
great time saver
9/17/08 5:03 PM
JandyLand said...
Do I need to prewash iron-on interfacing?, or any interfacing for that matter?/ thks~if you can help. JandyLand
3/26/09 3:23 AM
CountyBelle said...
Never thought to do this before but totally makes more sense. Thanks
10/18/10 9:09 AM
 
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