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Tips & Techniques > Shoulder line

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Posted by: ryansmumAria

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Posted on: 11/2/08 11:29 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 3 people   Very Helpful by 16 people   
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I see a consistent problem with shoulder line lengths. For most ,it is WAY too long causing a very sloppy look. Find a top or cardigan that fits you well . The armhole seam should sit on the crest of the shoulder.
Measure it and keep it for future reference. When adjusting pattern, you can cut off the excess remembering to leave the seam allowance. In alot of cases the sleeve will still fit but check by measuring. Usually, the sleeve has 3/4 inch or more of ease, for wovens.In the industry, we did not use any sleeve ease on knits so I don't either.

UPDATE- When taking body measurements, a short necklace is worn as a reference point. One measures from there to get accurate shoulder, center front and back meausrements.
An other meausurement that I encourage students to take and use it the back shoulder tip to shoulder tip measurement. This is an easy measurement to take yourself and it helps a great deal when altering a pattern.

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Winifred said...
I agree with what you say and its a good idea to follow - I do the same. But its not always foolproof - it depends how far away from the neckline the seam begins . If its at the neck, fine - if it lies away you will have to "try on " pattern piece or muslin in order to fit accurately.
11/2/08 1:04 PM
ryansmumAria said...
Yes, Winifred, you're right. When ever you measure, you should wear a short necklace. That is the point where you would take your measurement fromwhen measuring the shoulder length. There are so many "little things" one must keep in mind when adjusting patterns. Don't strive for absolute perfection ( this is why I adore Sandra Betzina) educate yourself on some basic principles, develop an eye for what a good fit is, take time to experiment, pray that common sense will kick in a little and hopefully you will be on your way to better fitting clothes.
11/2/08 3:07 PM
Kirstenw said...
What good advice for any who are starting out in pattern fitting. I draft my own patterns and the shoulder length has been for me the most important fitting tool. If it is too long then movement is very restricted. An excellent tip.
11/2/08 11:21 PM
fourkid said...
Ooooh, thanks. This is a good, easy practical tip. I know it isn't foolproof - but the necklace helps me see how this works. This is an area I really needed help for. Great tip to get me started on the right track.
11/3/08 6:20 AM
nancy2001 said...
I agree that it's important to get the shoulder line length right. Thank you RM, for your very helpful hint.
11/5/08 2:30 PM
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