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Tie Interfacing for easing in a sleeve (Tip/Technique)
Viewed 5675 times
Review rated Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 16 people   
Posted by: GorgeousFabrics
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About GorgeousFabrics starstarstarstar
Member since: 8/12/02
Reviews written: 63
Sewing skills:Expert/Couture
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tips added: 23
 
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Posted on: 6/2/03 2:54 PM
This is a technique I learned from Peggy Sagers when she came to Boston. To ease a sleeve into a jacket, cut a 1" by 16" bias strip of tie interfacing (the loosely woven interfacing that you find inside men's ties). Place one end of the interfacing at the point or notch on the sleeve where you would begin ease stitching. Align the long edge of the interfacing with the cut edge of the sleeve fabric. Drop the presser foot on your machine to hold the strip of interfacing in place, put the machine needle down, and pull the strip of interfacing tight towards you as you begin to sew. The interfacing will narrow to a width of about 5/8". Sew slowly in a 3/8" seam, holding the interfacing tight toward you as you sew. Continue around the armsyce until you reach the point where the easing stops. When you let go of the interfacing, it will spring back to it's original width and gather the sleeve into a perfectly eased curve, which you can then set right into the armhole. The interfacing also acts as a lightweight sleeve head.

This method took me a little bit of practice, but by the second time I used the technique, I was setting in sleeves like a pro. It won't work on sleeves that have heavily gathered heads, but for tailored jackets it's a great help.

You can buy tie interfacing (trade name is Armo Rite) from tailoring supply houses, such as Oregon Tailor Supply Co. Peggy Sagers also sells it.

By the way, I have no affiliation with Peggy, I just think this is a very neat way to ease in a sleeve.
-HTH, Ann
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17 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
SouthernStitch said...
Ann, adding to your tip: I read in one of Nancy Zieman's books that you can use Seams Great for lighter weight fabrics. But, I think you use much less than 16" on a blouse.
6/2/03 3:32 PM
Shannon Gifford said...
100 weight polar fleece works too.....
6/2/03 3:39 PM
Debbie Lancaster said...
The Sewing Place also carries Armo Rite.
6/2/03 6:20 PM
els said...
just like MaryT addes you can use Seams Great to ease your sleeves but you have to meassure the lenghts of your armhole between the dots which must be matched with the dots on your sleeve The lenght of that ( armhole )meassurement is the lenght of the seams great what you need to sew on your sleeve.Place the seams great from dot to dot pin it down and sew it with a long machine stitch while it is stretched on the same manner as Georgeous Things described ,after sewing the seams great the sleeve will spring back to the original lenght of the seasms great ,which is now matching the same lenght as the armhole.
6/2/03 8:50 PM
Loreli said...
Ann I have also tried what you described and was very satisfied. I got some nice tie facing that are washable and I used it in blouses too.
6/5/03 5:43 PM
GorgeousFabrics said...
I forgot to add one thing! After stitching the interfacing, trim off any excess! :) Ann
6/5/03 7:20 PM
Karla Kizer said...
I tried this technique for the first time a few months ago when I was making a lightweight wool coat. It worked beautifully. I was too lazy to drive to the store for the umpteenth time, so I disected one of DH's old ties. It had 2 layers of interfacing in it - one for each sleeve. Perfect.
6/7/03 9:25 AM
Amparo said...
Thanks for sharing your tip. I will try it in my next project.
6/10/03 7:48 PM
Henrietta Talfourd-Jones said...
Ann, I have just tried this method and I have to admit that at first after attaching the tie interfacing to one sleeve of my Linen Jacket (I wanted to test it out first, afterall it is less time consuming to rip out one sleeve than two) and after placing it on my sleeve ham, I was very sceptical as it didn't look as if it had been drawn in enough. After steaming it, I went to place it in into the armseye, low and behold, it worked!! This is probably the easiest time I have ever had in inserting a sleeve Lets just hope that it works on the next one as well. I had originally seen Peggy Sagers do it at the Chantilly Expo, but didn't realise how easy it was. Thanks for your review on this
8/12/03 7:06 AM
AnneM said...
I really have to read the tips section more often! This is a very interesting tip; thanks Ann & all who added with the comments.
8/12/03 10:29 AM
Julie said...
thanks! I have some of the Armo interfacing in my scrap box but couldn't remember the brand name! I used to work in a tailor supply company and haven't sewn a tie in several years. This year my 12 year old is really interested in ties so I thought I'd make he and his father matching ties. I tried our local fabric store but they had no idea! Thank you for this timely tip. I've used it many times when I tailored jackets for customers and it does make the nicest sleeve heads!
11/1/06 5:51 PM
slee said...
Great tip! I will try this next time. Also, if you don't have any armo rite or tie interfacing around, you can use any wool fabric, preferably something with the same weight or lighter than your garment fabric. Save the scrap fabrics from any of your wool projects. Cut a bias strip of the wool fabric widths of 1 to 2 inches and a length that is the same length of the sleeve head from notch to notch. Baste this strip along the sleeve from notch to notch. Then sew the sleeve onto the garment. Trim off any extra excess. After steaming it with an iron on a ham, you will have a beautiful sew in sleeve. The wool bias strip also acts as a sleeve head.
11/16/06 11:10 AM
3HoursPast said...
Wowie. I'm gobsmacked. I had a silk tie lying around ready to be cut up for the facing piping in this jacket anyway, so I was pleased to use the interfacing, too. WOW. I'm making a jacket of hemp with a high sleeve head, I was having a hard time easing it perfectly, but this took all the work right out of it. Wow. I'm using this forever, and teaching my students to.
11/7/09 2:28 AM
3HoursPast said...
Truly fantastic.
11/7/09 2:28 AM
sewingsilly said...
I never knew this method of inserting a sleeve. I think it's interesting and look forward to trying it on my next jacket.
8/4/10 5:35 PM
clumsyFingers said...
I just tried this on a silk blouse, with 1" bias strips of self-fabric. Worked like a charm. And I had added 1" width to the sleeve for my full upper arms. I will be using this for every sleeve from now on.
2/19/12 2:40 AM
sherrillann said...
Tie Interfacing for easing in a sleeve (Tip/Technique)
7/3/13 7:45 AM

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