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Tips & Techniques > An invisible, no-band,no-casing elastic waist from ready-to-wear.

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Posted by: textilis

About textilis star
Member since: 4/27/08
Reviews: 9 (tips: 1)
Skill level:Advanced
Favored by: 5 people
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Posted on: 4/10/09 9:47 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 4 people   Very Helpful by 33 people   
Web site/URL: photo

I copied this method from a purchased skirt. Both it and my version [1]were polyester chiffon, with slightly denser linings, cut on the bias. It should work with any LINED skirt (or pants) meant to be pulled on. There is no separate waistband, and the elastic lies just below the top edge of the skirt. Leave a 5/8" seam allowance at the waist.

I've tried to be explicit here and use lots of photos, but don't be fooled by all the words - this is extremely easy.

1. Sew the skirt and its lining at side seams (and center front and back seams, if applicable. Cut elastic for waist and seam into a circle of the desired size. Because the elastic will be sewn through several times, you may want to make it a bit snug to begin with. I used 1/2" non-roll elastic, and butted the ends together over a small piece of tough seam tape and zig-zagged them together, as described by many other folks.

2. Assemble skirt and lining, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, and baste within the waist seam.

3. Place elastic right at the top of the skirt, aligning it with the top edge of the garment, AGAINST THE INSIDE OF THE SKIRT (FASHION FABRIC). Serge or zig-zag elastic to skirt and lining at this top edge [2] (also see later photos).

4. WITH ELASTIC SIDE UP, stitch close to the unattached edge of the elastic, through all layers, stretching as you go. (Note: In my photo of this step[3], don't be thrown by the layer of black fabric basted on top of the elastic. I used white elastic, and had to wrap a layer of bias around it during installation to keep it from showing through the front of the skirt. You will not be this silly.) When you make this seam, the distance away from the edge of the elastic will determine how much of the skirt fabric eventually rolls to the inside along the top of the waistband; I did about 1/8". I used a straight stitch, but this could be a shallow zig-zag. After this step, it looks like this [4].

5. Turn lining out of skirt, so that you're looking at BOTH right sides (of skirt and lining)[5].

6. KEEPING SKIRT FABRIC FREE, stitch through lining and elastic, about 1/8 - 1/4" in from the seam between the lining and the skirt fabric.[6] Stitch again, 1/4" farther away.[7]

7. Turn lining into skirt and press waistline seam lightly. You may need to do this over a form. Depending on the fabric, you may not need to do it.

Hem to finish your skirt.

Here's how smooth this looks from the outside.[8] No casing, and no obvious gathers on this bias chiffon skirt.

Here's how it looks inside out[9]; just a couple rows of stitching.

This was smooth enough to go under even a cotton spandex top and not show.[10] Unfortunately, now any lumps I see at the waist will

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RivkaS said... (8/23/12 7:28 PM) Reply
links not working so I did not get to see the progression of the work.
ggexpansive said... (5/22/09 2:14 PM) Reply
what a good tip, i am going to try this. thank you for the slide show it was very helpful:)
Jeannie14 said... (5/7/09 7:01 PM) Reply
excellent tip
textilis said... (4/15/09 1:04 AM) Reply
Hi, Beth: If you go to the review I posted on this skirt, you can link directly to the photo set, rather than the slide show. If that doesn't do it, try this address: http:[email protected]/sets/72157616605700632/ Cheers.
Miss Fairchild said... (4/14/09 7:43 AM) Reply
This tip sounds excellent and a great way to get away from the old regular waistband. Unfortunately, I couldn't see pictures because it's in a slide show and my computer doesn't work with slideshows as it's too slow. (I have dialup.) But I think I get the idea. Thank you!
cindyann said... (4/13/09 12:55 PM) Reply
Wonderful tutorial!
SewRaeMe said... (4/13/09 10:07 AM) Reply
Excellent video
TracyB said... (4/13/09 1:29 AM) Reply
I think you are a sewing genius! This has to be the the most elegant way ever to obviate the unpleasant waistband. The slide show explains all. Thank you, textilis.
Juanita1980 said... (4/12/09 9:02 PM) Reply
This is an amazing technique--can't wait to try it for spring and summer!
Luckylibbet said... (4/11/09 12:27 PM) Reply
Very nice technique - I love how smooth this looks. I've bookmarked this for future reference. Thanks for taking the time to write it up with so many photos.
Patti B said... (4/11/09 10:35 AM) Reply
Great step-by-step illustrations. I've added it to my favorites so I can find again. Thanks for posting it!
Sharon1952 said... (4/11/09 8:18 AM) Reply
What a great tutorial! Thanks for the tip. Nice skirt too!
Patzee said... (4/11/09 1:56 AM) Reply
Thank you for the terrific instructions and the most excellent photos! Much appreciated.
JEF said... (4/11/09 1:16 AM) Reply
Very nice technique. Thank for the tip.
Kirstenw said... (4/11/09 0:55 AM) Reply
Thank you I have saved this to my favourites.
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