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An invisible, no-band,no-casing elastic waist from ready-to-wear. (Tip/Technique)
Viewed 5819 times
Review rated Helpful by 4 people   Very Helpful by 30 people   
Posted by: textilis
About textilis star
Member since: 4/27/08
Reviews written: 9
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 5 people
tips added: 1
Bio: more...
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Posted on: 4/10/09 9:47 PM
Web site/URL: photo

I copied this method from a purchased skirt. Both it and my version [1]were polyester chiffon, with slightly denser linings, cut on the bias. It should work with any LINED skirt (or pants) meant to be pulled on. There is no separate waistband, and the elastic lies just below the top edge of the skirt. Leave a 5/8" seam allowance at the waist.

I've tried to be explicit here and use lots of photos, but don't be fooled by all the words - this is extremely easy.

1. Sew the skirt and its lining at side seams (and center front and back seams, if applicable. Cut elastic for waist and seam into a circle of the desired size. Because the elastic will be sewn through several times, you may want to make it a bit snug to begin with. I used 1/2" non-roll elastic, and butted the ends together over a small piece of tough seam tape and zig-zagged them together, as described by many other folks.

2. Assemble skirt and lining, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, and baste within the waist seam.

3. Place elastic right at the top of the skirt, aligning it with the top edge of the garment, AGAINST THE INSIDE OF THE SKIRT (FASHION FABRIC). Serge or zig-zag elastic to skirt and lining at this top edge [2] (also see later photos).

4. WITH ELASTIC SIDE UP, stitch close to the unattached edge of the elastic, through all layers, stretching as you go. (Note: In my photo of this step[3], don't be thrown by the layer of black fabric basted on top of the elastic. I used white elastic, and had to wrap a layer of bias around it during installation to keep it from showing through the front of the skirt. You will not be this silly.) When you make this seam, the distance away from the edge of the elastic will determine how much of the skirt fabric eventually rolls to the inside along the top of the waistband; I did about 1/8". I used a straight stitch, but this could be a shallow zig-zag. After this step, it looks like this [4].

5. Turn lining out of skirt, so that you're looking at BOTH right sides (of skirt and lining)[5].

6. KEEPING SKIRT FABRIC FREE, stitch through lining and elastic, about 1/8 - 1/4" in from the seam between the lining and the skirt fabric.[6] Stitch again, 1/4" farther away.[7]

7. Turn lining into skirt and press waistline seam lightly. You may need to do this over a form. Depending on the fabric, you may not need to do it.

Hem to finish your skirt.

Here's how smooth this looks from the outside.[8] No casing, and no obvious gathers on this bias chiffon skirt.

Here's how it looks inside out[9]; just a couple rows of stitching.

This was smooth enough to go under even a cotton spandex top and not show.[10] Unfortunately, now any lumps I see at the waist will
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15 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Kirstenw said...
Thank you I have saved this to my favourites.
4/11/09 0:55 AM
JEF said...
Very nice technique. Thank for the tip.
4/11/09 1:16 AM
Patzee said...
Thank you for the terrific instructions and the most excellent photos! Much appreciated.
4/11/09 1:56 AM
Sharon1952 said...
What a great tutorial! Thanks for the tip. Nice skirt too!
4/11/09 8:18 AM
Patti B said...
Great step-by-step illustrations. I've added it to my favorites so I can find again. Thanks for posting it!
4/11/09 10:35 AM
Luckylibbet said...
Very nice technique - I love how smooth this looks. I've bookmarked this for future reference. Thanks for taking the time to write it up with so many photos.
4/11/09 12:27 PM
Juanita1980 said...
This is an amazing technique--can't wait to try it for spring and summer!
4/12/09 9:02 PM
TracyB said...
I think you are a sewing genius! This has to be the the most elegant way ever to obviate the unpleasant waistband. The slide show explains all. Thank you, textilis.
4/13/09 1:29 AM
SewRaeMe said...
Excellent video
4/13/09 10:07 AM
cindyann said...
Wonderful tutorial!
4/13/09 12:55 PM
Miss Fairchild said...
This tip sounds excellent and a great way to get away from the old regular waistband. Unfortunately, I couldn't see pictures because it's in a slide show and my computer doesn't work with slideshows as it's too slow. (I have dialup.) But I think I get the idea. Thank you!
4/14/09 7:43 AM
textilis said...
Hi, Beth: If you go to the review I posted on this skirt, you can link directly to the photo set, rather than the slide show. If that doesn't do it, try this address: Cheers.
4/15/09 1:04 AM
Jeannie14 said...
excellent tip
5/7/09 7:01 PM
ggexpansive said...
what a good tip, i am going to try this. thank you for the slide show it was very helpful:)
5/22/09 2:14 PM
RivkaS said...
links not working so I did not get to see the progression of the work.
8/23/12 7:28 PM

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