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Tips & Techniques > Basic Interfacings

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Posted by: monijo

About monijo star
Member since: 7/5/08
Reviews: 25 (tips: 23)
Skill level:Advanced
Favored by: 4 people
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Posted on: 7/9/09 10:37 PM
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 17 people   

Many sewers are undecided about which interfacing to use for a garment. This wastes sewing time. A compatible interfacing for most fabrics can be readily available if the twelve types listed below are kept on the shelf. However, before rummaging through an amply stocked cabinet, it's a good idea to know what you are searching for. Selection is determined by:

Crisp hand
Soft hand
Surface texture
Fabric type
Sewing technique

The following list reflects these sewing situations.

Basic Interfacings

1. Palmer/Pletsch Sheer interfacing.

60 in. wide
1 yd $7.95; 3 yds $23.50
PR 10% discount

2. Palmer/Pletsch Light interfacing. (same info)
3. Palmer/Pletsch Medium (same info)
4. Palmer/Pletsch Ultra Tailor
66 in.wide
1 yd $12.95

5. Pellon 911 F, feather to mid-weight fabrics.
20 inches wide
1 yd $1.99
22 inches wide
1 yd $2.20

6. Pellon 880 F, Sof-Shape.
22 inches
1 yd $2.99
22 inches
1 yd $2.75

7. Easy Knit fusible tricot interfacing.
60 in wide
$5.99 yd
20 in wide
$3.24 yd

8. Sof' Knit tricot interfacing.
30 in wide
$5.29 yd

9. Bi Stretch Lite nylon interfacing.
22 in wide
$5.95 yd

10. Organza, for sew-in use and buttonholes.
55 in wide
$8.75 yd

11. Batiste, for sew-in use.
45 in wide
$3.95 yd
3 yds $10.70
44 inches wide
$5.99 yd

12. Muslin, for sew-in use and for test garments.
43 in wide
$2.25 yd
5 yds $9.95

For a Crisp Hand

1. Palmer/Pletsch Sheer. Use for wovens where crispness is needed.
2. Palmer/Pletsch Light. Same as sheer. However, it will adhere to a textured surface. When applying to a smooth surface, make a test sample. The fusing agent may show on the right side. Use for woven and loosely woven fabrics, stretch wovens and knits.
3. Pellon 911 F, for feather to mid-weight fabrics.

For a Soft Hand

1. Pellon 880 F, Soft Shape. Use with light to heavyweight wovens and knits. Gives support without adding crispness. Can be used for tailoring. Has a heavier hand than the nylon interfacings below.

2. Easy Knit fusible tricot interfacing. Provides a soft fluid line.

3. Sof' Knit fusible tricot interfacing. Gives a very soft fluid line; complete drapability and flexibility. Use with wovens and knits.

4. Bi Stretch lite fusible nylon interfacing. Ultimate softness; drapes like a knit; use with light to medium weight knits or wovens.

For Tailoring

1. Palmer/Pletsch Ultra Tailor or Medium (Must pre-shrink)

Jacket Fronts (entire section)
Lapel Wedge (placed against roll line)
Under Collar
Under Collar Roll Line

2. Palmer/Pletsch Medium or Light

Upper Collar

3. Palmer/Pletsch Medium or Light;
Soft-Shape (Pellon 880 F);
Bi Stretch Lite

Jacket Back (entire section)
Side Panel

4. Sof' Knit;
Bi Stretch lite

Sleeve (entire section)

Please add to or subtract from this list as you see fit. Put interfacing where you like. I am not a member of the sewing police force.

Enjoy your sewing!

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chloeE said... (7/30/09 11:47 AM) Reply
Love your tips!! Thanks for another superlative one
MarilynB said... (7/10/09 7:19 AM) Reply
Thanks for an excellent resource
Rebecca Szetela said... (7/10/09 6:55 AM) Reply
-Excellent run down of interfacing types. thanks for posting!
Charrlie said... (7/10/09 1:14 AM) Reply
great review
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