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Tips & Techniques > Drafting crotch curve before sewing pants

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Posted by: Silk Challis
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About Silk Challis star
NA UNITED KINGDOM
Member since: 10/15/08
Reviews: 13 (tips: 3)
Skill level:Advanced
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Posted on: 9/13/09 4:19 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 12 people   
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This is the method I use to get good fitting with commercial patterns: just compare the commercial pattern with one drafted on the basis of real mesurements.

Choose your favorite method of pattern drafting and make your own basic template; eventually sew a test garment to check that the basic block is really good for you (don't forget to add the seam allowance before cutting the muslin); then draw a horizontal line on the self drafted pattern at the horizontal crotch line and compare the part above this line with the corresponding part of the commercial pattern you are about to sew (if the commercial pattern has the seam allowance already included, draw the seam line on it before comparing with your basic pattern).
Make the necessary adjustments to the crotch curve and to the side curve that goes from the waist line to the hip line (keep the side curve smooth, avoiding sharp changes).


You can find a good method for pattern drafting explained here:
http://www.leenas.com/English/draw_women_pants.html
And a picture of my basic pants template here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/challis9/3916056995/

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4 Comments
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purse said... (1/12/11 10:38 AM) Reply
i would like to know how to cut slacks in the crotch so that they can be a perfect fit for a tall person.
frame said... (8/11/10 10:32 AM) Reply
This is a great tip and is something I am currently working on.
Silk Challis said... (9/15/09 1:52 PM) Reply
Hello, Merry G. The picture of my basic pants template is made on my mesurements and works for me, so I don't think it could be useful to print it: I've published it to show which part of a self drafted pattern is to use as a reference to alter a commercial one. Consider also that the paper on which I traced it has been folded more than once and that for this reason the lines on the picture are not to take as they show: when I use it, I carefully remove wrinkles and folding lines by pressing it with a warm dry iron. Anyway, if you still want to print it, you can find a larger version at this link: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2463/3916056995_84b6d94b34_o.jpg.
Merry G said... (9/14/09 8:01 PM) Reply
I wanted to print out your basic pants template but could not get it to show up on the paper...any suggestions?
 
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