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Tips & Techniques > Shoulder/Tissue Fit

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Posted by: ryansmumAria

About ryansmumAria starstarstar
Member since: 7/29/05
Reviews: 135 (tips: 96)
Skill level:Advanced
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Posted on: 4/21/10 1:34 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 14 people   
Tissue fitting is crucial for many reasons but most especially for getting the correct shoulder length. The shoulder area and sleeve is a common problem area for many.

Pin your front and back pattern pieces at the shoulder and then pin or tape the center fronts/backs to your cf/cb.

Now re-fit your shoulder for slope.

Then find your shoulder point (this is that place where your shoulder and arm meet) and mark the place that is 5/8 of an inch past that point which is for your seam.
I then continue marking all the way down my armhole which hopefully is close to one of the lines that is already printed.

Make any other adjustments at neckline/centerfront/side seam.

Go to your table and smoothly connect all your lines (maybe you need a different color marker at this point).

You must now make corresponding corrections to your sleeve/facings and anything else that is sewn to the new seam lines.

This requires practice and you will have to try it several times to get it just right but it is worth the investment. I love having clothing that has well placed sleeves and correct shoulder lengths.

Often , I notice how too-long-shoulders causes the "unmade-bed" look.

Lucky us who sew and can avoid it!

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booran said... (8/30/10 6:27 AM) Reply
I always have problems fitting the shoulder area and armhole so I will definately give this method a try
Winifred said... (4/22/10 6:07 PM) Reply
I love all your tips and they are so useful. I think I have finally sorted my shoulder length but its not always as simple as you and many others say ! I have plump shoulders ( unfortunately) and its almost impossible to see exactly the point that is described. The only way I can do it is to follow up from the arm crease below, thats pretty accurate.
Catbird said... (4/22/10 8:06 AM) Reply
This is another fantastic tip. I am currently obsessed with shoulder/sleeve cap fit and seem to have a blind spot that is keeping me from getting what I want. My successive muslins for one Donna Karan jacket alone would probably sink a battleship! I struggle with making the proper sleeve changes after the torso changes are made, but as you say, it takes time and requires practice. I've had to put the DK project aside for now to allow the frustration to dissipate, but I'll get back to it! Thank you for taking the time to write these helpful tips and reminders.
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