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Tips & Techniques > Sewing Sequence for a Tailored Jacket

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Posted by: monijo

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Member since: 7/5/08
Reviews: 25 (tips: 23)
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Posted on: 8/6/10 11:41 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 4 people   Very Helpful by 13 people   

Session One: Read the pattern instructions. Make notes. Confirm that your personal notebook contains your current measurements. If not, re-measure yourself.

Session Two: Decide on alternative sewing methods, if needed. Assemble notes and books containing the needed information.

Session Three: Select interfacings. Decide on a method of fusing.

Method One: Cut a block of fabric that is 1 wider than the pattern piece.
Fuse interfacing to each block of fabric.
Cut out pattern pieces.

Method Two: Fuse interfacing to an entire length of fabric.
Cut out the pattern pieces.

Method Three: Cut out pattern pieces from fabric.
Cut out interfacing from pattern pieces.
Fuse interfacing pieces to cut out fabric pieces.

Session Four: Assemble notions and tools.

Session Five: Prep the pattern. Examine the pattern for points that will require marking. Note the locations that will need alterations. Make a list of the pattern measurements and your personal measurements. Do whatever else is needed to prep the pattern.

Session Six: Alter the pattern. Trace a copy of the original pattern onto pattern paper. Use this copy to make the alterations.

Session Seven: Draft a clean copy of the altered pattern. Put the original back into its envelope. This is where you really should start to sew a muslin.

Session Eight: Prep the fabric, lining and interfacing.

Session Nine: Cut out the fabric, lining and interfacing.

Session Ten: Fuse the interfacing to the fabric.

Session Eleven: Mark all pieces (including hems).

Session Twelve: Begin to sew. Sew the jacket sleeves.

Session Thirteen: Sew the pockets as far as you can.
Session Fourteen: Sew the body of the jacket.

Sew pockets to jacket fronts.
Sew fronts to side pieces, if any.
Sew fronts to back at shoulders.
Sew the underarm seam.
Sew the front facing to the back facing, if any.

Session Fifteen: Sew the lining unit.

Construct the sleeves. Press up the needed hem allowance.
Sew the back seam, if any.
Construct the center back pleat in the lining.
Sew fronts and back at shoulders.
Sew underarm seam.
Set in the sleeves.

Session Sixteen: Join the under collar to jacket; join the upper collar to the lining unit.

Session Seventeen: Form the lapels and front facings.

Session Eighteen: Set in the jacket sleeves. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads (if using).

Session Nineteen: Hem the jacket.

Session Twenty: Attach the lining to the jacket.

Session Twenty-One: Finish the jacket (topstitching, buttonholes, buttons).

Nothing is written in stone here. This is just a guideline.

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barb111 said... (8/16/10 10:18 PM) Reply
Thanks for the tip this sounds great!!!
Lizz said... (8/7/10 12:59 PM) Reply
Sounds so logical - now that you have done all the work for me! Thanks!
Merry G said... (8/7/10 12:18 PM) Reply
Wow...I love it...this is what I have always wanted...thanks sew much!
elsew said... (8/7/10 7:51 AM) Reply
Nice to have someone else do the thinking...this is a greating starting point for anyone planning such a project....breaking it down like this makes it seam (!) do-able! Thanks a bunch.
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