Tips & Techniques > Sewing Sequence for a Tailored Jacket
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|SEWING SEQUENCE FOR A TAILORED JACKET
Session One: Read the pattern instructions. Make notes. Confirm that your personal notebook contains your current measurements. If not, re-measure yourself.
Session Two: Decide on alternative sewing methods, if needed. Assemble notes and books containing the needed information.
Session Three: Select interfacings. Decide on a method of fusing.
Method One: Cut a block of fabric that is 1” wider than the pattern piece.
Fuse interfacing to each block of fabric.
Cut out pattern pieces.
Method Two: Fuse interfacing to an entire length of fabric.
Cut out the pattern pieces.
Method Three: Cut out pattern pieces from fabric.
Cut out interfacing from pattern pieces.
Fuse interfacing pieces to cut out fabric pieces.
Session Four: Assemble notions and tools.
Session Five: Prep the pattern. Examine the pattern for points that will require marking. Note the locations that will need alterations. Make a list of the pattern measurements and your personal measurements. Do whatever else is needed to prep the pattern.
Session Six: Alter the pattern. Trace a copy of the original pattern onto pattern paper. Use this copy to make the alterations.
Session Seven: Draft a clean copy of the altered pattern. Put the original back into its envelope. This is where you really should start to sew a muslin.
Session Eight: Prep the fabric, lining and interfacing.
Session Nine: Cut out the fabric, lining and interfacing.
Session Ten: Fuse the interfacing to the fabric.
Session Eleven: Mark all pieces (including hems).
Session Twelve: Begin to sew. Sew the jacket sleeves.
Session Thirteen: Sew the pockets as far as you can.
Session Fourteen: Sew the body of the jacket.
• Sew pockets to jacket fronts.
• Sew fronts to side pieces, if any.
• Sew fronts to back at shoulders.
• Sew the underarm seam.
• Sew the front facing to the back facing, if any.
Session Fifteen: Sew the lining unit.
• Construct the sleeves. Press up the needed hem allowance.
• Sew the back seam, if any.
• Construct the center back pleat in the lining.
• Sew fronts and back at shoulders.
• Sew underarm seam.
• Set in the sleeves.
Session Sixteen: Join the under collar to jacket; join the upper collar to the lining unit.
Session Seventeen: Form the lapels and front facings.
Session Eighteen: Set in the jacket sleeves. Attach the shoulder pads and sleeve heads (if using).
Session Nineteen: Hem the jacket.
Session Twenty: Attach the lining to the jacket.
Session Twenty-One: Finish the jacket (topstitching, buttonholes, buttons).
Nothing is written in stone here. This is just a guideline.
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