Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review


Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Find a member
MY Stuff
Friends of PR Benefits
My Pattern Reviews
My Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Widget
Photo Album
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Calendar
Deal Corner
Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine Central
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests
Read All Review Requests
Add a Review Request
Live Chats
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
See all Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
all contests
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials
Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
FLAT LINING (Tip/Technique)
Viewed 6083 times
Review rated Very Helpful by 9 people   
Posted by: monijo
photo
Friend of PR
About monijo star
NIGERIA
Member since: 7/5/08
Reviews written: 25
Sewing skills:Advanced
Favored by: 4 people
tips added: 23
Bio: more...
Report a problem with this review
Posted on: 9/8/10 2:06 PM
FLAT LINING

The most common way of lining a skirt is to make a separate lining and attach it to the waistline. This is called a drum lining. However, there is another approach that will result in a seam finish that is strikingly similar to the Hong Kong bound edge where 1 inch wide bias strips are sewn to the raw edge in a one-quarter inch seam, trimmed to 1/8 inch then folded over and stitched in the ditch.

Two methods of flat lining are given here. For both methods, the darts are marked on the lining.

With method one, the lining fabric wraps around the edges of the fashion fabric, enclosing them neatly. Method one can be used with any fabric weight. It is very helpful with bulky fabrics. A 5/8 inch seam can be stitched.

Method two is used with soft, lightweight fabrics. The lining will not wrap around the edges of the fashion fabric. A 3/8 seam will be stitched.

Flat lining can be used to underline pants, skirts, jackets, tops and dresses. Seams and darts will be invisible from the right side of the garment. It also helps to secure fabrics that fray easily. If you are sewing an unlined jacket, flat lining the sleeves will make the jacket easy to slip on and off.

Note: Flat lining is not suitable for horizontal seams, waistlines, necklines, armhole and hems. Practice this technique using squares of fabric and lining.


METHOD ONE

1. Cut pattern pieces from the fashion fabric.
2. Cut the lining from the same pattern pieces, but ADD 5/8 INCH to each suitable seam. Each lining piece seam will be 5/8 inch WIDER THAN THE FABRIC PIECES.
3. Mark darts on the lining.
4. Pin the fashion fabric and lining, right sides together, so that the edges meet.
5. Using a one-quarter inch quilting foot (Little Foot, nancysnotions.com), stitch the edges together in a one-quarter inch seam. If the fabric is very bulky, sew a 1/8 inch seam using the inner edge of the (Pfaff) quilting foot. For any weight of fabric, you may trim the seam to 1/8 inch, if you like.
6. Turn the garment right side out. Clip as needed for turning.
7. On a flat surface, smooth out the fabric layers. The lining will wrap around the edges of the fashion fabric.
8. Press to set the edges.
9. Stitch in the ditch to secure the edges.
10. Stitch the garment using a 5/8 inch seam.

METHOD TWO

Use the same procedure as above, EXCEPT:

1. Cut the fashion fabric and lining the same size.
2. Sew the garment using a 3/8 inch seam.


Sources:
Sew Smart; Judy Lawrence and Clotilde Yurich; OUT OF PRINT. Clotilde is the founder of Clotilde.com sewing supplies.

The Complete Book of Sewing Shortcuts, Claire B. Shaeffer. Apart from Sew Smart, this is the best of the best sewing handbooks. New edition available at amazon.com and claireshaeffer.com. Do not mind that its visual presentation (black and white line drawings) is totally unappealing. Buy it if you can.


Merchants on PR
Sewn Square One
Patterns for Your Style.
Web site
Gwyn Hug
Fabric Shopping Help!
Deals!
Lanetzliving Vintage Sewing Patterns
Vintage Sewing Patterns
Deals!

<< Previous Next >>

Add Tip/Technique    Read All Tip/Techniques


2 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
pottedpancake said...
Hmm. This is intriguing, and I'd love to try it. But I'll be darned if I can visualize how it works. Is there a drawing, photo or web site link that illustrates this technique? Thanks!
10/3/10 6:52 AM
pottedpancake said...
Hmm. This is intriguing, and I'd love to try it. But I'll be darned if I can visualize how it works. Is there a drawing, photo or web site link that illustrates this technique? Thanks!
10/3/10 6:52 AM

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us