|I often had trouble setting sleeves without getting puckers, but recently I had an "aha" moment. I had been attempting to follow the Burda-type instructions which have you insert the sleeve into the armhole right side to right side, easing the sleeve cap to fit inside. It finally occurred to me that if I position the sleeve cap so that the shape mimics the top of the shoulder (i.e., as an outside curve rather than an inside one) I could avoid the puckers. Here is how I proceed: pin or baste as usual from notch to notch at the bottom of the arm hole. Next,, flip the cap over, so that the sleeve cap side is uppermost, curve it over your hand and continue basting or pinning. It is much easier to smoothly shape the cap line over the armhole curve than to squeeze it under it.