I love using one thread-dart (which is stitched starting from a dart point) because it eliminates unsightly thread tails at the point.
In addition, Roberta Carr in her great book "Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing" argues that this type of dart has a smoother, pucker-free point and is easy to press. I am not sure if there is big difference to the traditional technique, but this technique never failed producing perfect darts.
Because of the neat finishing, this technique is definitely most advisable on sheer fabrics or whenever the inside appearance of the garment matters.
However, Roberta Carr also recommends using it
- On short darts (1 1/2" (4cm) or less), as in the cap of a sleeve.
- On fabric that is difficult to press, such as gabardine.
- On darts that extend almost to the bust point.
- In very fitted garments.
- In tailored garments.
How?
(For step-by-step images please visit my blog)
Step 1:
Remove the top thread from your needle and thread it backwards with the bobbin thread using a needle threader.
Step 2:
Tie the two threads together using the smallest possible knot.
Step 3:
Re-wind the bobbin thread upward until it wraps around the top thread spool several times (appr. three-times the length of the finished dart).
Step 4:
Stitch the dart from dart point starting with a denser stitch. (appr 20 stitches per inch). The first stitch should start exactly on the fabric fold! After 1/2 inch (1cm) return to regular stitch length appropriate for the type of fabric.
Note:
You will have to rethread the machine for each dart, but trust me, it is really worth the trouble!
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does this cause a problem with lint when you pull the thread up through the machine? we are told that on the 830 you should always cut thread at the spool and pull thread through the needle position to avoid problems inside the machine. We used to do this technique with the Singer that had the front drop in bobbin, agree it makes a beautiful dart.
4/7/11 1:49 AM
I've seen this done by Ron Collins sound like a good idea, I've yet to try it. Thanks for the tip.
4/7/11 9:04 AM
Just added your blog to my favorites. Love it. Keep up the good tips.
4/7/11 11:29 AM
Just added your blog to my favorites. Love it. Keep up the good tips.
4/7/11 11:29 AM