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Tips & Techniques > shortening Burda patterns

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Posted by: els
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About els starstar
NA NETHERLANDS
Member since: 1/28/03
Reviews written: 44
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Posted on: 10/8/03 7:12 PM
Last Updated: 1/1/07 1:35 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 5 people   
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Featured in the PR book!
Burda patterns are made for people who are 5.5 tall,if you are shorter say 5.2 you can shortening the patternparts at the way Burda describes.It is written in German but because of the pictures I think it is usefull to add this technique.
1 Centimeters = 3/8 Inche

I tried to translate the next German ( Burda) text in English hope it will help you to find where the lines must be drawn to shortening or lenghtening the pattern to get the right size you need.

Das Wichtigste gleich vorweg: Die Įderungslinien (unterbrochene Linien) m?im rechten Winkel zum Fadenlauf eingezeichnet werden, sonst geraten die Schnittteile aus der "Balance".
? Bei Kleidern, Jacken, Blusen und M䮴eln gilt: In halber Armausschnitth?und zwischen Armausschnitt und Taille k?(1).
? Damit der IJmel wieder in den Armausschnitt passt, muss auch die IJmelkugel entsprechend gek?erden (2, rechts).
? IJmel mit flacher IJmelkugel an den N䨴en, verlaufend bis zur unteren Kante, enger machen (2 rechts).
? Hosen werden an der oberen Querlinie um 1 cm, die Beinl䮧e wird je zur H䬦te ober- und unterhalb des Knies gek?3).
? R? in H?e k? Werden sie nach unten enger oder weiter, die L䮧e in halber Oberschenkelh?regulieren.


Alterations the shortening, lengthening lines must be draft at right angles from straight of grain, otherwise the balance is wrong.

For a dress, jacket, blouse and coat shorten or length the pattern halfway the armhole, and halfway the armhole and the waist.
The sleeve has to be altered too, because it has to fit in the new armhole.
Flat cap sleeves: reduce the sleeve seam from the under armhole tapering to the hemline.
For a high cap sleeve draw a line in the cap of the sleeve like the drawing shows.
Pants are altered halfway the crotch lenght and halfway the crotch and knee, and halfway the knee and hemline.
Skirts alter at hipline, if you want the skirt hemline wider or narrower than you can alter beneath the hip but above the knee .

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5 Comments
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Katharine in BXL said...
Thanks els! I'm 156 cm tall (!), or should I say SHORT! (Almost 5'1). Klein maar fijn!
10/9/03 1:29 PM
Deepika said...
Thanks for including a link to this page Els. Its really helpful I am 5'3" and I always have to make these modifications though I've seen that I can get away without any alterations in the pants.
10/10/03 9:20 AM
Irene said...
Great info, els! I'm eight inches shorter than Burda's typical height, so I will USE this!
10/10/03 10:17 PM
KMangum said...
When shortening, make sure to take into account *where* to shorten. Short torso, short crotch depth, or short legs? Petite individuals may have "pattern-normal" torso length but short crotch depth, or vice-versa.
10/13/03 6:08 PM
Lucia/Lyonel said...
Burda now has a page in English on shortening patterns. Here is the URL: http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Service/1000001-1021872-1021875.html
4/12/08 10:05 PM
 
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