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tapered legs for one seam pants (Tip/Technique)
Viewed 5243 times
Review rated Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 2 people   
Posted by: Kim Winson
About Kim Winson starstar
Member since: 2/2/02
Reviews written: 86
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 18 people
tips added: 12
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Posted on: 10/24/03 10:01 AM
Featured in the PR book!
Hello ladies and gentlemen! The credit for this tip goes to the fabulous ladies here at the site. I wanted to convert a pattern for a regular pair of jammies to one seam. Deepika had already posted a tip about it previously but I just couldn't figure out how to add a taper to the legs. Georgene and Barbara Hatfield both gave great advice: the side SEAM becomes the new straight of grain. that is, overlap the seam allowances on the lateral side seams. Then overlap the hems to create the amount of taper that you desire.

Now, if your pattern is shaped in the hip area (as mine was) and you don't want to lose ease in this very important area (!!), use a pin to secure both pattern pieces at the widest point of the hip. The pin then acts as a pivot point when the hems are overlapped to create the taper. Clear as mud? When you are done, you'll have a crazy huge gap between the two pattern pieces. This is darted out when the pants are sewn up--just trace sewing lines along the edges of the pattern pieces. I trimmed the excess fabric after I sewed the dart. Next time I make jammies, I'll probably transfer the dart to the CF and CB seams.

I hope this was clear. I really enjoyed doing this pattern modification. And my jammies came out very nicely. (Picture is coming.) Woohoo!

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5 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Mollykat said...
Great tip, this is something I want to do...
10/25/03 9:34 AM
Alice said...
I didn't get the drift, lost it in the first two sentences. The only seam is the in seam so what's this about the lateral?
11/3/03 2:55 PM
Kim Winson said...
Hi Alice. My apologies--I was getting all medical/scientific on you. In my mind, I was thinking of the inner (or medial) seam and the side (or lateral) seam. Does this help make things clearer? Kim
11/4/03 6:40 AM
casey said...
hi kim love your funny coments , I would taper the inseam of both the front and back legs also so they hang straight. Measure in at the hem of the inseams 1/2 the width that was removed at the side by the overlap. The inseam will not swing to the front and will hang nicely from the knee.
1/24/04 11:02 PM
Alice said...
WHAT?? I'm lost. I have a pair on the cutting table now but I'm thrown as to how to get all that fullness out. I took an old pr of pants, which fit, and made a pattern but one leg was a tad of grain. So I bit the bullet and bought a cheapy but MG the legs would fit an elephant. How to taper is the challenge, inner seam or outer or both?
5/15/05 12:56 PM

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