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Tips & Techniques > Serging curves, not for the faint of heart!

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Posted by: Debbi S

About Debbi S star
Member since: 6/27/09
Reviews: 5 (tips: 5)
Skill level:Advanced Beginner
Favored by: 1 people
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Posted on: 2/5/12 6:00 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 7 people   

This one is going far beyond a simple technique, if you get in a couple of sentences and its too far out skip it and I wont blame you! lol.
I couldnt accept the problem of serging curves, especially tight inside or outside reversing patterns. I am using a singer 14u244 for this one. Heres what I saw the problems to be and and how they were fixed. Advanced mechanical skills are required, all changes reversible.
The first issue limitiing the ability to control the fabric is the distance from the knives to the needle, such a long path forces the material to go straight! For my changes to work you will need to scissor cut precisely the outline to be followed and drop or disable the knive. Now the issue is how to align the fabric edge to the stitch finger where the loops are formed. I made a vertical prong out of stiff wire that pokes up ahead of the stitch finger. This will act as a (bumper) seam guide that is as close to the needle as possible. This prong is held in place by the lower knife clamp.
I removed the front feed dog enitrely, the u 244 is a differential feed. This way only the rear dogs grip the fabric, allowing more control!
Finally, the presser foot was wedged or locked with the toe up so only the heel of the foot clamped the fabric to the rear feed dogs. This allows the fabric to move freely side to side under the toe while pivoting about the needle.
Now I can make beautiful curves with a radius of less than 3/4 of an inch on paper towels! I will try to upload photos later,,,,

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raggmopp said... (2/10/12 11:15 AM) Reply
wow!!very intriguing--(I agree with elsew--you are a genius ;o) I follow (sorta) what you did but can't visualize all of it especially how you keep the front toe of the presser foot raised and still allow space for the fabric to pass under the rear of the foot. Also, how complicated is it to "remove" the front feed dogs? I have limited "surgical skills".
JPForster said... (2/10/12 7:09 AM) Reply
I've had an issue with serging curves - especially around inside armholes and down inside side seams. My sewing instructor was showing me how to finish off an inside seam and ... lo and behold, SHE cut into my jacket using the serger. Then I was left to try to fix! I would really appreciate photos illustrating your technique!
mb230slk2000qazwsx said... (2/9/12 10:45 PM) Reply
Please upload photos step by step Your idea is genius!
mb230slk2000qazwsx said... (2/9/12 10:44 PM) Reply
Please upload photos step by step Your idea is genius!
wendyrb said... (2/7/12 11:59 AM) Reply
Debbi, I am very eager to see photos of what you are describing. Sounds like you have found adventurous ways to conquer serging curves. Thanks, ~ Wendy ~
Pamela R said... (2/6/12 6:39 PM) Reply
Thankyou, that is the best explanation of how to get the curves nice, that I have ever read. I am lookng forward to the pictures.
Merry G said... (2/6/12 5:58 PM) Reply
awesome idea
Marcia R said... (2/6/12 9:56 AM) Reply
yes, the photos would be very helpful and the technique sounds like an interesting approach.
elsew said... (2/6/12 8:53 AM) Reply
I'm with solosmocker on this one. My hubby is the mechanic in the family and I won't let him touch any of my machines! You, my friend, are a genius.
neversews said... (2/5/12 7:39 PM) Reply
How did you get the presser foot locked with the toe up? And can you put the front feed dogs back in when you want them? I don't have a singer maybe it is easier on this model? It does sound very impressive. I would be afraid I wouldn't remember how to put it back together. You know you should take pictures and suggest this to the the serger companies. Maybe they could make the front feed dogs lower? Then make an attachment for the guide. I really do think this is extremely clever that you engineered this!
solosmocker said... (2/5/12 6:46 PM) Reply
I'm impressed. Don't understand a thing of what you did but I am impressed you made it work.
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