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Tips & Techniques > Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) by adding a horizontal dart

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Posted by: Silknmore
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Member since: 9/30/06
Reviews: 18 (tips: 1)
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Posted on: 6/16/12 11:49 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 9 people   
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To make a FBA when there is no horizontal dart, go to or follow the following steps:

1. Copy the pattern piece onto a separate piece of pattern paper, leaving several inches around all of the edges so you have space to make adjustments.

2. If needed, start by adding width to the side of the bodice front (and back if needed), making sure that the dress pattern is equal to the wearer’s full bust measurement plus wearing ease.

3. Slash the pattern horizontally at the wearer’s bustline.

4. Physically separate the top and bottom pieces of the pattern and add an amount that is consistent with the wearer’s bust fullness. This could range from 1-4" or more.

5. Fill the slashed area with a piece of pattern paper and tape in place.

6. Draw a dart at the center of the area you added to the pattern.

Now make a muslin and continue to add to the circumference or to the front length (by adding more to the slashed area) until you have the desired fit.

Hope this works for you.

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sewme47 said... (10/1/12 11:26 AM) Reply
Good tip. Thank you!
susie k said... (9/25/12 6:11 AM) Reply
Thank you. I draft a lot of patterns and copy garments and this makes a lot of sense to me.
Alice said... (7/11/12 10:08 AM) Reply
What's with those question marks where a comma should be?
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