Now this is probably a big DUH! to most of you but I learned this off the msg board. Last Sept (2002) Gigi led an excellent discussion on sleeves. You know that rounded end of the sleeve board is not there just so it'll look like a minature ironing board. It's the perfect shape to steam the sleeve cap to perfection before inserting. Sorry is if this is elementary to many but being a self taught sewist somehow I missed this. Another point she made worth reiterating is sew at the 5/8ths seam line to gather, not inside. Also, armo weft on the bias (the stuff inside DH's old ties) is great to gather the sleeve. Sew and stretch the armo weft as you go.