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Class Reviews > Craftsy - Pant Fitting Techniques by Sandra Betzina

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Posted by: grays08
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Posted on: 5/31/13 2:04 PM
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Review Rating: Helpful by 6 people   Very Helpful by 36 people   
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This class comes with Vogue pattern (OOP) V2948 which is a princess seamed pant. This is helpful to know since I feel like this helps justify some of the course cost but if it's on sale, it's an even better deal so keep that in mind!

In this particular class, Sandra focuses A LOT on upfront diagnosis of pant fitting problems which to me I found both good and bad. She spends what seems like half of the course walking through various pant fitting issues, some of it on live models (this was wonderful). I loved every second and thought it was just the best info until I realized in this section, she walks through the problems and identifying them with your eyes but kind of glosses over how you would resolve them. At the time I didn't think much about this as she said "I'd take a tuck here" and "I'd pull this up here" but translating that into actual pattern and garment changes falls short at times.

Now in fairness, most information is contained somewhere within her class, or she will answer you (send a question). Sometimes I found it much later on, sometimes I didn't find it at all and had to ask her. She made it a point on the dancer model Shawna to point out in the back that she would take a section out of the back thigh but never says how any where in her course and actually after she answered me, it's a great tip from her and Kenneth King (I've seen an article on Threads from him on this since). She takes a horizontal fold out of the back thigh and adds the length to the bottom of the pant! Don't you think that would have been great to have in the course somewhere? Just a missed opportunity I suppose, but it's frustrating.

Another good example of my frustration at times with this class is the section on measuring the crotch curve length. Betzina makes it a big point to measure your crotch curve length from your favorite pair of RTW and then compare these measurements to your pattern. Even if you overlook the fact that you have to have a "good" RTW to borrow from (there is a way to do this without that she answered in someone's question but Craftsy has now purged that), the giant problem with taking this forward to execution is that every pants pattern has a waistband that sits at different places so you never know where the "true" waist is and how to measure this when comparing crotch curve length unless you have made them up before. The pattern contains the "waist" marker, but this is almost never the waistline of a pant and isn't even very true (measurement wise) in terms of relation to the waistband but better than nothing. I found all my time spent taking these measurements (and they are still good ones to know) were pretty worthless unless you know where the pattern waistband hits you so you can truly measure it and compare so you can adjust. Again, I asked Sandra, and she replied saying more or less that yes, it's an issue, only value is in looking at pattern description and for her particular pants pattern for this course that it was at the waist dipping down 1/2" in the center. Ugh, but at least it got me in the ballpark with measuring but do you see what I mean about trying to apply this to other patterns? And why wasn't the location of the waistband for this class pattern not stated? Ugh again, but hey, it's a complicated subject so I get it.

All of my frustrations aside at times with this class, I found it excellent and would recommend it. It really opened my eyes for the first time that I have an athletic build and have to adjust for a full front thigh and calf. In fact it made me stand in the mirror and look for the very things she showed in the models so that was excellent. Her section on "truing" the grainline after your adjustments on the pattern was top-notch and info I had not seen elsewhere although she said something about it being in "Power Sewing", I don't recall seeing it there. I thought going into this class that I had "good" RTW pants, boy was I wrong. The side seams were all over so it really made me re-assess my body and how to adjust for it. It also made me question how many people who claim RTW fits them so well really have pants that fit well, LOL! = )

I would say the majority of this class is on visualizing problems and making the adjustments to the pattern. I found after I had made my muslin that I felt like I was left "hanging"...but really you go back and visualize the issues and redraft, just the class really doesn't address this at all. It's all about adding it up front as much as you can and adding the fit insurance so that you can adjust it. The great thing is that she does cover both two piece pants, pants with fly fronts and four piece pants.

I find it irritating as a whole that Craftsy seems to purge the Q/A history. I just looked back and a lot of the information that I found so valuable (including my own questions with her) has been purged now and isn't viewable any where. I found a lot of great info from Sandra in the Q/A so I guess don't bypass looking at that if you take the course as it's interesting.

I feel like after taking this class that I can now manuever around a pattern and make pattern adjustments needed for pants. I've already taken a few other pants patterns and applied some of the concepts to them, and it's worked well. Ultimately measuring my body, measuring the pattern and adjusting, making them up and then tweaking. I think with Sandra's class, I've been able to eye adjustments needed much better, now the best way to go about making those, not so clear at times, but it gives you a good working knowledge to pull in other books, classes, resources, etc.

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6 Comments
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Annie- oh said...
This review is appreciated. I purchased the course early then decided against even looking at it it when I read some negative/semi-negative reviews. Your thorough assessment - and ultimately successful results - will get me through the frustrating parts. Thank you so much for the time and effort you took to write this.
5/31/13 6:42 PM
Barbara3 said...
grays08, This is such an incredibly helpful review and so easy to follow. It feels as though you're having a conversation with us about the experience of this Craftsy class. I bought it some time ago, along with SB's pant sewing follow-up class. But I haven't yet watched either one. You've given me some important perspectives for when I do. As Annie- oh said, thank you for the time and effort you took to write this.
5/31/13 8:24 PM
SandiMacD said...
Top notch review! I signed up for both her Craftsy classes as I have no decent RTW pant and need help understanding my fit issues. I am sorry to hear Crasftsy has begun purging Q&Q history- we are paying for that feature. Will make me think twice about future classes and how I can capture a record of information I want to retain.
6/1/13 4:50 AM
Sanibelle said...
Thanks for taking the time to write such an excellent detailed review!
6/2/13 7:45 AM
ArtAttack said...
I'm glad you got something out of it. I felt like it was pretty much a waste of money for a lot of the reasons you mentioned and then some. Good for you for sticking with it and working through your fitting issues.
6/11/13 10:19 PM
InglesideBelle said...
Your review is incredibly helpful. Thank you for sharing some of the details of your communication with Sandra! I, too purchased this class some time ago but haven't watched it. It's disappointing to know that Craftsy deletes teacher/student interaction instead of archiving it. Your comments about the difficulty of determining crotch curve length because of the fact that the top of one pants pattern (or RTW) is in a different place than another relative to one's waist are so helpful!
7/22/13 10:48 AM
 
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