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Tips & Techniques > Creating/grading patterns

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Posted by: Caitlin

About Caitlin
Member since: 12/15/03
Reviews written: 1
Sewing skills:Intermediate
tips added: 1
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Posted on: 12/15/03 0:51 AM
I am a freshman at Pratt Institute in the fashion program. We have been making patterns all semester, however the patterns are a dressform size 8. I am very petite and thin (5'3" and 105lbs.) and I wanted to know if anyone had any advice for grading down my existing patterns or creating ones to fit me. Thanks!

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stitchit said...
Caitlin:This applies to commercial patterns. Try this: Take your neck measurement at the base of your neck as for jewel neck. If the measurement is say 131/2", you are a size 8 pattern. Never mind what your other measurements are. This formula works like magic. Once you get the correct neck size then your shoulders will be the right width and your armholes with be the right depth. If your neck size is 1/2" larger or smaller you go up or down one dress size. Please try this and let me know how you made out. Please read my "tip" of May 26 and check for square shulder first and then adjust the bust, waist, etc. in that pattern size. stitchit
5/28/04 1:34 AM
Battgirl said...
I am going to check out that site Michelle. Thanks heaps. I use topkids patterns for my kids and wouldn't you know it the shorts I love are too big.
1/20/04 3:47 AM
Michelle Giordano said...
this website helped me discover how to create a size 3 childs dress from a size 7 childs pattern. it was meant for adult alterations to patterns and is helpful.
12/18/03 8:38 AM
cindyann said...
Caitlin, a while back someone posted instructions for grading patterns down for smaller people. I cannot find it now, but perhaps if you posted in the pattern/drafting section of the message boards someone will reply.
12/15/03 12:42 PM
KMangum said...
"Threads" magazine, July 2002, has a nice article discussing how to grade up or down: MAKING SENSE OF PATTERN GRADING by Terry Horlamus -- it discusses changes in bust size and general proportion changes as well.
12/15/03 10:22 AM
Shannon Gifford said...
Yes.....are you using a textbook for your patternmaking? If so, just follow the instructions you have been using, but plug in your own measurements.
12/15/03 7:02 AM
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