|This is one of three approximately one hour classes that Cynthia Guffey presents on www.dailycrafttv.com. A bargain at under ten US dollars, I recommend this class without reservation!
First: don't just think "jacket". You can apply the principles and techniques presented here to any type of garment with a bodice.
She demonstrates commonly needed alterations using mockups on women with a variety of fitting challenges. I never thought of myself as having some of the fit issues discussed here, but that was because I was, frankly, overlooking them. I'll be using quite a few of the techniques here in every garment from now on, and I can already see improved results.
Cynthia packs an amazing amount of demo with discussion about why each issue occurs and why the alteration eliminates it. Plus, she's funny.
My little favor to myself, and now to you: below is a list of each of the topics covered, with their timings, for easier refresher visits.
1. Examination of diagonal wrinkles at shoulder, bust, and upper back. These point to shoulder slope issues, bustline issues and upper back curve. This session focuses on these issues than more straightforward "nip and tuck" circumference adjustments.
2. The wrinkle-free fit of Cynthia's own jacket
2:30 Shoulder width
1. How shoulders that are too wide result in tightness in the back
2. Pinning the shoulder princess seams on the mockup to narrow the shoulders
3. Transferring the correction to the pattern
14:00 Shoulder slope [where for me, the penny drops at last]
1. Examination of a model with square shoulders, resulting in the garment pulling up at the neck
2. The opposite problem: shoulders more sloped than the pattern create fold wrinkles at the lower rear armhole
3. Spreading the shoulder of the mockup to determine the amount of fabric to add for square shoulder
4. Transferring shoulder slope correction to the pattern, and the opposite adjustment for sloped shoulders
26:40 Flat hip
1. Recognize the issue: Fold wrinkles angle from side at waist to hip, side seam swings forward, and center back hem falls too low
2. Taking a horizontal tuck on the mockup above hip, tapered to nothing at side seam; removes excess length over flat hip
3. Transferring flat hip adjustment to pattern
4. Drawing a new grain line on the pattern after flat hip adjustment
36:30 Upper back curve [Me? Surely not. Oh.]
1. Discussion: most women require this alteration. You need it if you have diagonal lines stretching up from lower back armhole to center back. You can also get those coming from the lower front armhole to the neck/shoulder intersection
2. Slashing the mockup to determine amount of adjustment required
3. Distributing adjustments across the entire upper curve, aiming for no more than 1/4" per adjustment
4. Measuring the total adjustment
5. Transferring to the pattern, plus tips on working with side back and back pieces together in a princess seamed pattern
1. Discussion: length and curvature adjustments needed when the person's cup size doesn't match that built into the pattern
2. Slashing the mockup at the bustline to determine the amount of length to add
3. Adding length to center front and side front pattern pieces
59:00 SBA [woohoo!]
1. How to pinch length across bust to eliminate diagonal fold lines of extra fabric, and the swing of the side seam from under the bust toward the back
2. Transferring to the pattern: a mistake people make by decreasing/increasing along the cutting line; results in mismatched stitching line
3. Reducing curve and length in the center front and side front pattern pieces
1. More on the upper back curve, which Cynthia's co-host calls a "life changing event"
2. Compare Cynthia's perfectly fitting jacket that has 3/8" upper back curve alteration to a more poorly fitting jacket from the same pattern without that alteration
3. Discussion: seams needed in patterns to allow for the adjustments discussed