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Tips & Techniques > Tutorial: Finish underlining and seams in one (a.k.a. "flatlining")

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Posted by: Jenny80
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About Jenny80 star
MA USA
Member since: 6/17/10
Reviews written: 23
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Posted on: 3/24/14 2:48 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 13 people   
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I discovered a great technique for finishing seams and underlining in one - it ends up looking like a cross between a French Seam and a Hong Kong finish. It's a perfect solution for silk or other fabrics prone to fraying, like my recent silk faille Simplicity 2343. I originally found this described on Pattern Review back in 2006, but I struggled to understand the instructions without some photos, so I thought I would put together this little tutorial. Hope you find it useful.

Full tutorial here: http://cashmerette.blogspot.com/2014/03/tutorial-finish-underlining-and-seams.html

Text only steps (but I recommend you actually go to the blog post with images!)

1. Cut your underlining 1/2 inch wider than the fashion fabric on each vertical seam (i.e. the whole piece will be 1 inch wider).

2. Sew the vertical edges, right sides together, using a 1/4 inch seam. Because the underlining is bigger, it won't sit flush to the fashion fabric.

3. Cut the seams allowances down to 1/8 inch. I highly recommend the tip Amy learned at a sewing expo recently - use your serger without needles in to quickly and cleanly trim the seams.

4. Turn inside out (i.e. wrong sides together). Press the underlining away from the fashion fabric, and then fold the underlining around the edge of the fashion fabric to the back side. Note that the fashion fabric *doesn't* fold, but rather, the underlining wraps around it. You can stitch in the ditch along the fashion/underlining seam, but I didn't find that necessary.

5. Now treat the fashion fabric and underlining as one piece! When you sew it together, you'll have lovely 1/8 inch wrapped edges. Remember that you trimmed 1/8 inch off the fashion fabric, so sew up the vertical seams with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.



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5 Comments
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sacjeanie said...
This was a great tutorial. The photss and drawings were so helpful. I do have a questions, what do you do with the horizontal seams (newbie sewer here)?
3/25/14 10:02 AM
ASiverson said...
I will watch tutorial soon and want to thank you!
3/25/14 10:35 AM
Jenny80 said...
Hi SacJeanie! So this is definitely easiest with vertical seams, and what you can do is simply topstitch the horizontal seams together (they will usually be covered by the hem or waistband and not be visible). However, you *can* also do this with horizontal seams - just leave a little gap at the corner when you stitch so you can fold the fabric over, and it works just the same.
3/25/14 10:58 AM
Alice said...
I'M A VISUAL PERSON. WOULD FOLLOW YOU IF YOU ADDED A VIDEO OF THIS TO YOUTUBE SO I CAN SEE HOW IT'S DONE. I ONLY SAW 1 PICTURE HERE.
4/8/14 12:08 PM
Jenny80 said...
Hi Alice if you follow the link in my review, you'll see a step-by-step photo tutorial. http://cashmerette.blogspot.com/2014/03/tutorial-finish-underlining-and-seams.html
4/15/14 11:40 AM
 
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