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Tips & Techniques > Tight armholes?

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Posted by: stitchit
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Posted on: 5/27/04 2:39 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 4 people   
If your pattern fits well at neck and shoulder width and the armholes are too tight, the problem is a "square shoulder". Measure your back from center back waist diagonally to shoulder point and compare that measurement to pattern measured from center back diagonally to shoulder point and the difference will be the amount you have to add to the pattern at shoulder point starting with nothing at neck. I always have to add 1/2" to my patterns but am presently fitting a client and have to add 1 1/2" to her back shoulder point of pattern. You must add the same amount to top of sleeve cap.

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9 Comments
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regine said... (9/28/05 11:47 PM) Reply
Sorry if this sounds stupid but why can't you just cut the armhole a bit bigger under the arm?
tsm said... (7/21/05 4:11 PM) Reply
This sounds like a problem that I'm having with Vogue 2720. My question is do you thing this will work on a dress with a back princess seam.
stitchit said... (8/29/04 3:15 PM) Reply
greysome! You only add the necessary amount to the height at the shoulder point and it will not affect the sleeve length and the shoulder width remains the same. This is a square shoulder alteraton.
greysome said... (8/28/04 9:43 AM) Reply
In reading this I would think I will end up with a dropped shoulder and longer sleeve. I'm confused.
Ingiepops said... (5/31/04 1:08 AM) Reply
Thanks, I tried it on a dress pattern that was way too tight in the armholes, and it now fits a lot better! I will definitely be using this technique in future.
stitchit said... (5/28/04 0:51 AM) Reply
Yes AnneM, just add to shoulder width with a sloping line. Ingiepops: No, do not add anything underneath the arm., just adjust the shoulder seam. Please let me know how you made out. stitchit
Ingiepops said... (5/28/04 0:32 AM) Reply
I have this problem myself as I often find the armholes are too small. So you don't add anything underneath the arm, just adjust the shoulder seam?
AnneM said... (5/27/04 3:25 PM) Reply
So you add that to the pattern length at the shoulder, w/ a sloping line in to the neck?
stitchit said... (5/27/04 2:43 AM) Reply
Sorry for spelling error I made on second word. should read "your"
 
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