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Tips & Techniques > Western yokes

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Posted by: Diana M

About Diana M star
Member since: 4/19/04
Reviews: 66 (tips: 13)
Skill level:Intermediate
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Posted on: 9/19/04 1:45 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 3 people   Very Helpful by 3 people   
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Most western-style shirts are a plain shirt with the yoke appliqued on top. In many pattern instructions, we are told to "press under the seam allowances" on the decorative edges. This can be kinda tricky, especially if they're fancy, or if working with a 1/4" sa like on KwikSew patterns.

This is a tip borrowed from machine applique quilters. Cut a second set of the yokes from something very thin -- organza, batiste, or lightweight interfacing --for a lining. Shave a 1/16" off around the fancy edges of the lining pieces, but not the neck or armholes.

Sew the yokes together at shoulder seams; sew the linings together at shoulder seams. Put the yokes/linings right sides together and stitch around the decorative edges with the edges even. Leave the armhole and neckline edges unsewn.

Trim any points or swirls as close as possible to the stitching line. If you're concerned about raveling, use a *drop* of Fray Check and let it dry betore turning.

Turn the yoke to the right side. The tiny bit of trimming done on the lining pieces should keep them from showing. Pin the yokes in place and topstitch. Baste around the neck and armhole.

Be sure to use a thin fabric for the lining, since it's adding another layer of fabric. I used a non-fusible woven interfacing, which worked perfectly.

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zoezmommy said... (10/18/04 8:37 AM) Reply
Great idea...i think I might adapt it for adding a 'drop waist' to a pair of pants that don't have a long enough 'rise' for my 2 year old.
Oopsy-Daisy! said... (10/10/04 4:16 PM) Reply
Great idea!
Diana M said... (10/9/04 9:27 AM) Reply
What a great idea -- I'm sure gonna try that, Marylynn. Thank you!
MaryLynn in Long Beach said... (10/9/04 1:39 AM) Reply
You can also use a water soluable stabilizer that will completely wash away.
Liana said... (9/21/04 8:51 AM) Reply
Great tip! I do thi s on patch pockets sometimes.
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