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Tips & Techniques > Creating easy jacket lining

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Posted by: KarmenG
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Posted on: 11/26/04 3:06 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 2 people   Very Helpful by 14 people   
I was talking about this method at the recent Creative Inspiration sewing fair. One PR friend suggested I add it to this site so here it is. I learned this technique from Roberta Carr's video called Linings. It's sort of a cross between an underlining and a lining.

It's a technique to create an easy jacket lining when one is not provided in the pattern - or if you'd like to insert a quick lining rather than using traditional methods.

Here are the steps - please let me know if you have any questions.

#1 Cut the lining using your garment pattern pieces - cut the front, back and sleeve - no changes.

#2 Construct the garment facing by stitching the facing shoulder seams. Finish the outer edge of the facing by serging or turning under 1/4". (not the edge that will be stitched to the neckline and center fronts)

#3 Stitch the shoulder seams of your lining sections.

#4 Lay the facing pieces on top of the lining sections (wrong side of facing to right side of lining), matching the raw edges at Center Front and neck edges. You can pin or hand baste the raw edges together. Now edge stitch the fininshed edges of the facings to the lining so they are attached to each other and become one piece.

#5 Now treat the lining/facing as if it is just a large facing. You apply it to the right side of the garment, stitching the Center Front and Neckline and turning it inside as usual.

#6 For the sleeves - I stitch the garment sleeves and lining sleeves separately. Then insert the lining sleeve into the garment sleeve, wrong sides together. From then on, I treat them as one piece, and insert each sleeve into the garment armscye as usual. Then I serge finish the armhole seam.

# 7 I hem the sleeves and garment as usual when using a lining (separately).

This isn't a couture lining but I haven't had any negative effects on the jackets I used it on, and it's quick to do. I've used the technique on several Loes Hinse jackets because she doesn't include a lining in her instructions.

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12 Comments
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Georgene said...
Great technique! If you would like a slightly 'couture' finish in the armhole, use the lining fabric to make a bias binding instead of serging.
11/26/04 3:34 PM
KarmenG said...
Georgene - yes you could bind the armhole for a nicer appearance. By the time I get sleeves in, I'm usually ready to finish and don't take the time. But it would be an upgrade to the method.
11/26/04 4:11 PM
sewfan said...
This is a great tip and sounds like an easy way to add a lining. Thanks! Pam
11/26/04 4:13 PM
happy jack said...
I used this lining technique in a class and thought it was so practical. I have my own notes but found the steps listed very helpful.
11/27/04 8:00 AM
PVA said...
Boy, is this a great tip! I really thank you for this, I will be using it soon!
11/27/04 10:09 AM
Sherril Miller said...
Thanks Lois for posting this. Now I know where to find the directions come time to line something.
11/27/04 1:37 PM
drsue said...
Thanks for posting this here. This is a fabulous idea.
11/28/04 10:11 AM
CarolynGM said...
I have used this technique on several occasions. It works very well and the effort is not great.
11/29/04 7:06 AM
Jan B. said...
Great concept--this I gotta try. Thank you.
11/29/04 7:58 PM
SewVeryTall said...
Neat technique, and very well written.
11/30/04 4:35 AM
Lizzy said...
I missed this tip and just found it. Great instructions - could have used this last week - now it's too late but will try it next time.
12/10/04 9:53 PM
DesertGirl said...
Where can you find Roberta Carr's video on linings? I just did a search on Google and could not find. Many thanks. Nance
11/25/10 11:09 AM
 
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