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Tips & Techniques > Inside binding for neck finish on knits and wovens

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Posted by: Georgene

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Member since: 10/5/02
Reviews: 110 (tips: 9)
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Posted on: 2/27/05 0:04 AM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 7 people   
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Easy-breezy way: cut bias strip twice as wide as you need your top stitch, then add 1/4"x2 for seam allowance. Example: (1/4" topstitch x 2=1/2") (1/4" seam allowance x 2=1/2") = 1"....then add 1/8" because your bias is likely to get narrower as you handle it. So cut bias strips of 1 1/8" wide for a 1/4" topstitch.
Fold bias in half and set on to outside neckline. flip bias to inside, press and/or pin while shaping with hands for non-stretched out neckline. Basting is best until you've had lots of practice, or if your fabric is treacherous. You will have to experiment with what the best finish is for the ends of the bias, it depends on what shape neckline you are binding.
Hand finish with overcast stitch for discreet invisible finish, or topstitch from outside to keep even distance from edge. Use a cross-over catch-stitch on knits and it will have enough stretch for most knits, even if you use a woven bias such as chiffon.

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ryansmumAria said... (4/6/06 10:40 PM) Reply
I would love to be able to see the pics. Could you repost?
Liana said... (3/5/05 11:16 PM) Reply
Great tip Georgene. The photos are so nice too, All your things are just wonderful! It's nice to know that chiffon bias will work with almost any fabric for this.
marya said... (3/2/05 11:00 AM) Reply
Thank you very very much for this tip georgene. Finishing knits and delicate fabrics discourage me before I even start. This method seems like there's alot of safeguard and controls built in. And mistakes would be fixable. I'm going to copy this tip and put it by my machine.
Georgene said... (2/28/05 8:28 PM) Reply
Yes Anne, you are correctly guessing at the 1/4" seam on the outside. You then turn the bias to the inside and topstitch or handstitch. Sometimes you need to baste at this point, to keep the bias nicely turned before stitching. It depends on your level of might be able to make do with pins. Then again you might be ripping it out, and re-doing it, like I just did the other day. A catchstitch, or crossover catchstitich (depending on which reference you are looking at) looks like little x's with the top of the x in the body fabric, and the bottom of the x in the hem. It runs from left to right, instead of right to left like a regular hemstitch.
AnneM said... (2/28/05 7:28 PM) Reply
Umm, I don't get it. You take the bias strip and fold it in half lengthwise. I'm guessing that is wrong sides together. Then you set on to outside of neckline. This is where I lose you. Is "set on" a term for sewing it with the 1/4" seam allowance? If so, then I think I follow your explanation. You then flip the bias facing to the inside & topstitch. Where does the basting come in? And what is a cross-over catch-stitch? (I probably should re-read this in the morning; I must be tired tonight to have to ask you so many questions.)
Jan B. said... (2/28/05 1:12 PM) Reply
Nice explanation and good illustration. Thank you for providing this.
Ann C said... (2/28/05 7:48 AM) Reply
Thanks Georgene, very nicely explained.
gabrielle said... (2/27/05 9:07 PM) Reply
Thanks, Georgene, this will be really helpful. I have a very unstable linen sweater knit that I've had no clue how to finish; I think this will do the trick. :)
Georgene said... (2/27/05 6:32 PM) Reply
Gabrielle, it works on any edge you need to finish: necklines, necklines that vee into plackets on fronts of cardigans, cuffs.
gabrielle said... (2/27/05 5:02 PM) Reply
Georgene, would this technique also work for facing cardigans, assuming there are no buttons/buttonholes involved?
Georgene said... (2/27/05 11:58 AM) Reply
Photo of neckline attached to this tip is a garment made of stretch rayon/nylon/lycra burnout velvet with a silk chiffon binding. The bias is stretchy enough, and the cross-over catchstitch is stretchy enough that the stitches don't crack when pulling the garrment over the head. I couldn't use the self fabric to finish this neckline, as the velvety tufts made lots of little lumps.
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