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Tips & Techniques > Decreasing bulk at the edge of facings

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Posted by: Julia Graham

About Julia Graham star
Member since: 4/12/02
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Posted on: 1/4/03 11:03 PM
Review Rating: Very Helpful by 1 people   
This seems pretty obvious, but it was the first time it had occurred to me so maybe worth sharing...

I'm currently sewing Vogue 7647, a princess-seamed, inset-waist dress, in a cherry-red stretch velour (and hoping the finished product won't look too much like a bathrobe -- fabric was 50 cents/yard at Chic Fabrics in NYC so my investment is pretty minimal). The pattern calls for wool jersey, among other things, so I felt safe enough using a stretch fabric. But the velour is bulky, and the facing technique used is that familiar one of folding back the edge and slipstitching it over the finished seam (i.e., two identical pieces cut -- one is garment piece, one is facing -- garment piece gets the 5/8" SA taken up, facing gets its 5/8" SA folded back and stitched over the corresponding garment piece SA). I was ending up with a very bulky princess seam right over the bust -- not good. So I serged right down my fold line, cutting off the SA and finishing the edge. With a bulky fabric, the thread added by overlocking is a small price to pay for getting rid of a whole layer of fabric. Since my fabric is knit, I could have just cut off the SA and stitched the facing into place, but the serging both looks neat and gives my slipstitching something firm to hold on to rather than a slightly ravelly knit edge. Getting rid of that one layer really helped, and I plan to do this on other fold-back SAS in the future.

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SouthernStitch said...
Julia, thanks for that tip - another use for my serger!!
1/5/03 3:11 AM
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