|This is a tip related to mini's newsletter "What the pattern doesn't tell you 2" regarding sleeve ease.
As a beginner, one of the things I didn't realize was how much the bias edge sleeve cap can stretch after cutting out the fabric. This is one place where I think it pays to mark the actual seamline between the notches right after you cut out the fabric and not depend on the cut edge to be accurate guage of seam allowance. Sometimes you will be surprised that that seam allowance has grown to one inch or more by the time you set in the sleeve, and if you try and set it in at 5/8 it will be much bigger.
Think of that seam allowance line as a guide, not some law that you are forced to follow. If you want more ease, sew the sleeve in further out in the seam allowance. Cut the shoulder seam allowance a little wider in case you need that extra room in the bodice. I have narrow shoulders and large hips, so sometimes I add in a shoulder pad.
In case many of you don't read the Message Board, there is an excellent discussion of easing in sleeves on Gigi's Expert Forum, dated September 10 2002, topic starter susanbb. I, and I'm sure many others, have printed this out for reference.