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Tips & Techniques > More sleeve advice

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Posted by: wood turtle

About wood turtle
Member since: 9/18/02
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Posted on: 1/6/03 1:02 PM
Review Rating: Helpful by 1 people   Very Helpful by 1 people   
This is a tip related to mini's newsletter "What the pattern doesn't tell you 2" regarding sleeve ease.

As a beginner, one of the things I didn't realize was how much the bias edge sleeve cap can stretch after cutting out the fabric. This is one place where I think it pays to mark the actual seamline between the notches right after you cut out the fabric and not depend on the cut edge to be accurate guage of seam allowance. Sometimes you will be surprised that that seam allowance has grown to one inch or more by the time you set in the sleeve, and if you try and set it in at 5/8 it will be much bigger.

Think of that seam allowance line as a guide, not some law that you are forced to follow. If you want more ease, sew the sleeve in further out in the seam allowance. Cut the shoulder seam allowance a little wider in case you need that extra room in the bodice. I have narrow shoulders and large hips, so sometimes I add in a shoulder pad.

In case many of you don't read the Message Board, there is an excellent discussion of easing in sleeves on Gigi's Expert Forum, dated September 10 2002, topic starter susanbb. I, and I'm sure many others, have printed this out for reference.

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Sew it seams said... (2/11/04 10:58 AM) Reply
Hi Febbie. If you post your question over on the message boards, you will find lots of help there. You can find a link to "Gigi's Expert Forum" down on the lower right hand corner of the Home page.
Febbie said... (2/11/04 5:28 AM) Reply
i would like to know how to measure, cut and insert a sleeve to a jacket
Gigi Louis said... (1/6/03 10:22 PM) Reply
You are so right in thinking that some sewists (usually the beginners who need fewer rules!) think sleeve ease is written in stone. Some fabrics ease better than others. If you just can't fit it all in, it's really okay to scoot the cap a little further into the armscye and vice versa. It's just a matter of allowing the fabric to guide you. I'm glad you found our lively sleeve discussion helpful. It's a favorite topic of mine because most commercial patterns really confuse and misguide us when it comes to easing a cap. Happy sewing. :-)
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