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Message Board > Fabrics and more... > Can a Burda plus pattern be made smaller? ( Moderated by CynthiaSue)

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Can a Burda plus pattern be made smaller?
sideseams
 sideseams
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Date: 1/10/14 9:37 PM

I have a plus size Burda pattern that I would like to make smaller ( about size 14). Is it possible to do that ?

sacjeanie
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Date: 1/11/14 10:11 AM

I would think it would depend upon what type of pattern it is. I took a Craftsy class with Barbara Deckert, Plus-Size Pattern Fitting & Design. The steps are pretty basic. To reduce the size I would think you would do the opposite of what you would to to increase the size. Things would get tricky if it were a shirt pattern because of the arm. However, if it were a shirt and lets say you need to take it in 2 inches. There are 4 vertical lines (right front, left front, right back, left back) take each seam in 1/2 inch. If there are also princess seams you'd count those vertical seams also and divide the number between those also. If I remember the class details correctly, you would take the arm scythe piece in 1/4th of what you are reducing the side seam. So take the sleeve piece in 1/8 of an inch. You would probably need to modify the attached sleeve piece if it has one. I would baste most of the seams, try it on and pinch any extra fabric you want to take in so you know where you want the final seams to be.
I can't advise you about pants because I haven't modified any patterns yet.

Michelle T

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In reply to sideseams <<


Date: 1/11/14 11:02 AM

What pattern are you looking at making?

What is the smallest size on the pattern you have? And have you compared the measurement chart to the size you need?

I found that Burda envelope patterns in plus sizes had so much extra ease that I (a size 18 is rtw) was better off using the smaller sizes and adding to the bust and belly to accommodate my body.

------
Proud parent of a Dwight International School Honour Roll Student

sideseams
 sideseams
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Date: 1/11/14 11:12 AM

Thanks girls for your input. It is a cardigan and t-shirt pattern.
I have already cut out the size 18. I am going to try your advice.
Your input has been very helpful.

PatternNotches
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Date: 1/11/14 11:18 AM

Monthly editions of Burda have instructions how to do this somewhere on the instructions pages in the middle of magazine, it's easy to overlook. Does the pattern start with size 44 or 46? If the pattern starts with size 44 I think you can grade down. I did in the past. The reason you need size 44 is the grades between sizes are larger starting size 46 (in other words you need size 44 and 46 only to grade down; size 46 and up don't apply).

sideseams
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In reply to PatternNotches <<


Date: 1/11/14 7:56 PM

Yes, the pattern starts at 44. I will see if I can find the directions in one of my Burda magazines. Thanks so much.

lamstu
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Date: 1/11/14 8:14 PM

I have made size 42 from Plus patterns a few times. Starting with the size 44 pattern, I "cheat" and cut on the seam lines (in other words, I don't add seam allowances after tracing). This has worked for me, even though it's not strictly correct. If your fabric is precious, consider doing a test garment. Good luck!

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lamstu

sideseams
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In reply to lamstu <<


Date: 1/12/14 8:32 PM

That's a great idea! I will try it. Thank you so much.

michelle_01
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Date: 1/12/14 9:22 PM

I tried grading a Plus pattern down 2 sizes before and it was a big Fail. It fit, but certain things weren't right- the shoulders and neckline were just off. If you make it work let us know, b/c I may be tempted to try again.

sideseams
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In reply to michelle_01 <<


Date: 1/13/14 7:50 PM

Yes, If I try it I will let you know how it worked! Have been so busy lately I have not had a chance to get in the sewing room.

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