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Message Board > "Gigi's" Expert Forum - (READ ONLY) > Rolled hem - any tricks?

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Rolled hem - any tricks?
alligunn
alligunn
Intermediate
ON CANADA
Member since 9/13/03
Posts: 2
Date: 9/16/03 3:38 PM

I can't seem to get the hang of doing arolled hem with the special foot.  Does any one have any tips for me?  I am making askirt for a friend right now an would love to be able to finish the hem this way.

Thanks, Allison

Gigi Louis
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Gigi Louis
Advanced
Member since 4/4/02
Posts: 7876
thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 9/16/03 3:48 PM

The rolled hem foot is easy to master - start with some scraps of fabric that are on-grain.  You can move on to curves and bias once you've had a little practice.

I begin by turning in a double fold hem (the width will depend on your particular foot) for a couple of inches at the beginning and either fingerpressing or pressing with an iron.  Then, put the fabric under the foot (but NOT in the scroll yet) and stitch a few stitches to secure the beginning of the rolled hem you just made.  I like to leave a long thread tail to help me keep the fabric from getting stuck under the foot.  Stop with the needle in the fabric and raise the foot.  Using a seam ripper or awl, roll the fabric into the scroll of the foot.  Put your foot down and continue to stitch guiding the fabric evenly into the foot as you go.  It takes a little practice to get the feel of how much fabric to guide into the foot.

A great project for practicing this technique is a napkin set.  Begin first by cutting the width of napkins across the entire width of your fabric.  For instance, I like my napkins 18" finished so I cut my fabric 18.5" across the entire width.  Roll hem both long sides of your strip of fabric.  Then cut the strip apart into individual napkins and roll the other two edges.  By the time you are finished you will have mastered this foot!  :biggrin:

els
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els
Expert/Couture
NETHERLANDS
Member since 1/28/03
Posts: 1979
Date: 9/16/03 7:18 PM

Rolled hem technique as Gigi described but now with some pictures

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http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/

alligunn
alligunn
Intermediate
ON CANADA
Member since 9/13/03
Posts: 2
Date: 9/17/03 12:18 PM

Thank you !!  I will practice and find a different project than this skirt for this - I think I will actually have to press and roll this hem 0 as the silk is a little heavy for the foot  (I think)

Thank you so much for your help,
Allison

Autumn
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Autumn  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 23
Date: 1/17/04 0:23 AM

Gig,

What's the difference between a rolled hem that you get with a rolled hem attachment on a regular sewing machine, and a rolled hem that you get on a serger?  What do you prefer for clothing? for tablecloths? I'm trying to decide whether I should be yet another presser foot for my Bernina sewing machine...

Thanks!

Raewyn Hayes

Raewyn Hayes
Intermediate
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 6
Date: 1/17/04 5:21 AM

Another excellent article about rolled hems is in Threads #98; "Master Your Narrow-Hemmer Foot".  I found it especially helpful as it has pictures showing the best way to guide the fabric smoothly into the foot.  HTH

Gigi Louis
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Gigi Louis
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Member since 4/4/02
Posts: 7876
Date: 1/17/04 8:21 AM

autumn, the rolled hem on a serger is very narrow and encased by thread.  Usually a very short stitch length is used for items that will get a lot of wear like napkins and tablecloths.  The longer stitch length is nice for scarves and other items that won't get much abuse.  I must confess that I don't use the serger rolled hem very often.  I guess that will change since I recently acquired a machine that does nothing but.  I am planning an onionskin top with all the edges lettuced using the rolled hem.

A conventional machine rolled-hem is much wider than a serger rolled hem and more durable since all the fabric is enclosed and then stitched down.   I also think it looks more expensive.  This is the type that I prefer for my napkins - it's quite easy to master with practice.  Bernina has quite a few different rolled-hem feet available.  I do have them all but could, in all honestly, make due with a narrow zig-zag and a wide zig-zag foot (I think these might have been called shell hemmers).  They also have rolled-hem feet for straight-stitch only but you can do that on the zig-zag feet so I think they're unnecessary.

SouthernStitch
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SouthernStitch  Friend of PR
Advanced
LA USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8169
Date: 1/17/04 8:45 AM

I just wanted to add my 2 cents here as I just did my first acceptable rolled hem on my serger!!  On my serger, I use wooly nylon to the upper looper.  (Not necessary but gives a thicker coverage).  On the bottom hem, I let the knife cut the fabric and on the sleeves I didn't.  The sleeves came out better.  If my digital camera hadn't been stolen  :angry: recently I'd show you pics, but I am sure someone else can.  Your serger manual should have instructions for it.
I think either treatment is fine for napkins.  For garments - I'd say if the fabric is silky and light, you almost have to use either of these hems unless you use a binding, lace, etc.  But which type hem is up to you!  For me, button down shirts that might possibly be worn "out" mean baby hem only, knit tops would get twin needled or rolled on the serger.  Filmy and knit skirts, could be either.  Have fun with it!

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Bernina 730E, 530, and 350PE
Singer 221 FW, 403a

When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.

Autumn
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Autumn  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 23
Date: 1/17/04 10:59 AM

Thanks for all your help!  (And Gigi, sorry for the typo on your name in my post!;)  I guess I'll try my serger first, and if I don't like the look, get the extra foot for my Bernina.

drsue
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drsue
Beginner
YT USA
Member since 11/11/03
Posts: 1772
Date: 1/17/04 6:49 PM

Gigi:  one more question regarding rolled hemmer use:  I'm not sure of the best way to end when doing a skirt.  The first time I tried I started to roll the part that was already rolled.  Do you just stop before the rolled portion and do the last 1 inch or so by manipulating the fabric with your fingers?

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