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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Sewing instructions/pattern for dress w/pick-up skirt ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Sewing instructions/pattern for dress w/pick-up skirt
mistycreek
mistycreek
Intermediate
Utah USA
Member since 4/8/06
Posts: 6
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Date: 6/27/06 0:09 AM

I am trying to learn how to sew a dress with a pick-up skirt. I have been unable to find a pattern, book or even instructions on the internet. Can anyone point me to a book, pattern, website or even explain how to do them? I have been sewing for a long time and do fine as long as I have a pattern or instructions to follow. I have heard them called "pick-ups," "pin-ups," and even "bubble tucking." Thanks for your help!

Misty

Janie Viers
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Janie Viers  Friend of PR
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Date: 6/27/06 8:56 AM

If you refer to a bubble skirt - make a lining shorter by at least 4 inches than the skirt and gather the full skirt to the lining. Pull up the lining to meet the waistline or til the poof makes the grade. Sew the lining to the waist and apply waist treatment.

------
JanieV

funsewer
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funsewer
Intermediate
Alberta CANADA
Member since 11/6/04
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Date: 6/29/06 4:58 AM

Try
Simplicity 4237

View B

cheers
jean

ETA
And check out
Sewing Divas making the bubble skirt
AND
Part II of the Bubble Skirt

for how-tos.

-- Edited on 6/29/06 5:02 AM --

mistycreek
mistycreek
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Utah USA
Member since 4/8/06
Posts: 6
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In reply to mistycreek


Date: 6/29/06 11:26 PM

Thank you for your help. I am going to post a pic of the skirt of the dress I am wanting to make. The description called it bubble tucking, but I have seen a similar technique (more dramatic) in wedding dresses called pickups. I just can't find anything in a pattern close to this. I've even looked at wedding dress patterns and can't find one. I'm thinking I can use the bubble skirt idea and just stitch it at various points and cover each stitch with a little embellishment of some sort. I just don't know if it will work. I sew pretty well if I have instructions to follow, but as far as going it alone...that is uncharted territory for me. I am hoping someone with more experience than me can give me an idea of how to achieve the look in this skirt. I have elements from 3 different dresses that I am trying to incorporate into one dress. I am using a dupioni silk. Here is the pic of the skirt I want to use:

funsewer
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funsewer
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Alberta CANADA
Member since 11/6/04
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In reply to mistycreek


Date: 6/30/06 1:07 AM

Ah, I see.

Yes, I think that an underskirt lining that is shorter than the overskirt, sewn together at the hem with the hem not pressed would approximate the look.

The tucks look like they sewn in a diamond pattern with the diamonds getting gradually larger towards the bottom of the skirt.

Very, very pretty. I can see why you want to make it.

Good luck with it.

cheers
jean
-- Edited on 6/30/06 1:08 AM --

I've seen thse wedding dresses but I think that the technique is not the same. The wedding dress skirts look like austrian blinds or balloon shades whereas that cristening dress looks more like an extremely gently smocking effect. I cannot even tell if it actually has a bubble hem or of the hem is just folded under for display.


-- Edited on 6/30/06 1:13 AM --

Jet Set Swim, Natalie Miller Bridal
Jet Set Swim, Natalie Miller Bridal
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Texas USA
Member since 11/5/07
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Date: 11/5/07 10:27 PM

A bubble hem and a pickup skirt are not the same thing.
Pickup skirt (which the poster and I are both trying to figure out):

Bubble hem (cute, but not what we're talking about):


I have a client who wants pickup skirts for her 2 junior bridesmaids, and short of just safety pinning a muslin toile, I'm not sure where to start either!

Janie Viers
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Date: 11/7/07 12:44 PM

Pretend you are smocking. Tack up the fabric of the overskirt to the underskirt at set points about 8 inches from waist. Then make same number of set points offset (like a brick wall) and continue doing this from top of skirt to about 10 from hem. You could tack using individual pearls that would show on the skirt or fleurettes or beads. You could tack from the back so no thread shows.

------
JanieV

LilGnome
LilGnome
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South Carolina USA
Member since 11/27/07
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Date: 11/28/07 0:09 AM

I don't know if you still are interested since it's been a while since the original post. I too love the pick-up skirts that have become very popular with brides recently. I found that McCalls pattern M5321 contains the skirt you're looking for. If you wanted the skirt separate from the top you would need to add a waistband, not too complicated if you've made skirts before. Hope this helps!

greco
greco
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Alabama USA
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Date: 11/28/07 0:41 AM

for the best affect for "pick-ups" is to use a stiffer textile, like a sturdy satin or taffeta for a strong presence. But if you want an lighter affect, like in this Oleg Cassini with the organza pick-up overlay on dull duchess satin, then make sure before you do anything, you put one or two layers of tulle under the organza and treat the tulle as part of the organza. This appliction provides and support to the stress point where you actually tack the pick ups (and perhaps add an embellishment afterward) as organza is quite fragile and would tear through far too quickly by just the act of sitting down in the dress.
As well, it also creates much needed structure to the pick-ups when using a lighter textile and will maintain that structure far longer than the organza alone.
Another important point to remember is to NOT hem the dress until you have finished tacking up your pick-ups as this technique will make the hem wavey by the action of picking up sections and leaving others down. So do plan on this in your execution of the finishing. If you hem first, you'll be hemming again after you finish doing the pick-ups. JF

greco
greco
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Alabama USA
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Date: 11/28/07 1:01 AM

Sorry, I forgot to tell you the "how to" part but a previous post was correct in telling you it was like tatting.

Cut and make you base skirt in the fabric of choice. If you are using a satin or taffeta or any other non-sheer, then a good strong lining textile will do. (If a sheer textile is prefered then please refer to my previous post on details).
Then cut another skirt for the overlay that is FULLER in it's width volume by one half the original pattern piece by equal distribution and depending on how many and how full you want the pick-ups, cut the length twice as long as the base skirt. Keep in mind you will have to have hemmed the base skirt already to the desired length and this overlay will have to have at least a 6 inch hang over UNHEMMED when you are finished doing the pick-ups in order to be able to cut a straight hem after the pickups are done.
I usually start at the bottom for this reason. saftey pin your seams together but realize you'll have to keep undoing these and re-doing these as you manuever the pick-ups into place but you want to be sure you don't loose the positioning of the layers. Using small brass safety pins, pull the overlay up to a desired flounce and pin, move over and up and repeat then move over and down and repeat, etc. Do this all the way around the bottom until you return to the begining point.
Then start again above that at the desired distance you want the next level of flounces of pick-ups.
Symetry is lovely on many designs, but it is also extremely couture if you try an abstract pattern in some designs, maybe finishing with a obvious full pull to one hip or the other for a bit of drama and where you may put only a pearl and sequin on all the other pick-ups, on that hip rouching, you may put a lovely embellishment of lace and bead work that is rather ornate. Anyway, that's how it is done. And in case you have thought of it the dress should already have all the crinolines and lining under it as you do this so that you are working with the volume you intend to have at finish. Otherwise you will have a very short dress if you add the crinolines and such after the fact. JF

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