Date: 10/8/08 11:16 PM

Hello, I'm wondering if anyone can help me. I'm brand new here and I'm a little desperate! I am sewing my daughter's wedding gown. I am using Vogue V2803, but it is modified. I hope this works but here is a picture of the design: hunnyspot.com

My daughter wants a corset back. I found a picture of a dress with what looks like lacing made from the dress fabric but that's not what she wants. She wants it to look like a corset and I have satin rattail cording to use for the lacing. I've been searching high and low for the best way to do this. I don't feel comfortable making eyelets in the fabric so I plan to use the "eye" part of hook and eye tape under the center back seam allowance and lacing it that way. I think that will work but I'm concerned that it won't be stable and it will start slipping. I've thought about using hooks and eyes to hold the dress together with the lacing over that. Can anyone give me any direction? The wedding is November 1st so I'm running out of time! The dress is essentially done, just waiting for the closure in the back so I can finish it.

The point I'm at now is this: I have the dress and lining basted together at the top. There is a foundation piece which matches the seams of the dress itself and extends to the waistlline. The boning will be sewn over each seam of the foundation and then attached as a facing would be (right sides together at the top of the dress). I'm wondering if I can use the foundation to actually close the dress and use my idea for the lacing over that with the dress itself. I have interfaced the foundation and plan to put interfacing on the center back for stability. Is there anything else I should do? This is just unknown territory for me. Oh, why couldn't she just have a zipper!

I'd appreciate any help at all. Thank you in advance.

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Date: 10/8/08 11:20 PM

Well, corset backs DO fit better.

Could you buy an actual corset pattern and morph it onto the back closure? I mean, one that is designed as an actual undergarment rather than decoration should be able to hold the dress together.

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Date: 10/9/08 7:37 AM

I think you will certainly need hook and eye tape underneath the lacing because the lacing itself is not strong enough to hold the back to gether for a gown that will be worn for pretty much an entire day.

Kenneth King has a CD book called "Birth of a Bustier" that you can order right here on Pattern Review, and its an excellent resource for learning who to construct this type of garment. He covers the whole process in great detail and he's a wonderful teacher.

Phyllis
-- Edited on 10/9/08 7:37 AM --

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Sewing = Fashion
http://coudremode.com/

Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity.

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Reply to FirecrackerKTM
Date: 10/9/08 7:40 AM

This is true. I could use the information in a corset pattern to learn about how to stabilize the fabric so there are no surprises when we lace her up. That's what I'm afraid of, since I have no frame of reference for this type of closure. I'm thinking of attaching fabric to the foundation piece and sew hook and eye tape there to actually close the dress, having the lacing over that. I'm trying to do something that can be reversed if it doesn't work.

Does this sound feasible?

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Reply to PhyllisC
Date: 10/9/08 7:50 AM

That sounds like a good idea. In the description, there is this statement: "I use The Moulage, so if you don't have that CD, it is recommended." I don't know what that is. Do I need that?

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Date: 10/9/08 8:13 AM

Have you thought about loops for the closure? I had a difficult time figuring out how to do the corset back closure on my daughters dress as well. I ended up borrowing a friends dress to see in person how it was done. The best I can do is to show you some photos of Kate's dress progress. wedding dress
Some things to keep in mind- 1. a waist stay is a MUST
2. I put rattail in the cording for the loops to add stability.
3. The ties themselves (in some pictures I have just some temporary ribbon) is peau de soie cut on the bias, and I stretched the heck out of them.
4. I reinforced the back edge where the loops are with doubled up silk organza.
5. the modesty panel was sewin in on one side and hook and eyed on the other.
Your daughter's dress looks gorgeous!

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Connie Bontje

Attending - Philly PR Weekend AND Montreal PR Weekend - are you??
The website - www.couturesmith.com

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Reply to Lizhonig
Date: 10/9/08 8:29 AM

Quote: Lizhonig

That sounds like a good idea. In the description, there is this statement: "I use The Moulage, so if you don't have that CD, it is recommended." I don't know what that is. Do I need that?

That's Kenneth's french term for a muslin. On the moulage CD he teaches you how to make a custom one from scratch, and you would use the moulage as the pattern for the real one and you won't need to worry about adapting a commercial pattern to your daughters figure.

I actually do recommend having both CD's because he really is master of pattern drafting and design, and for something as special as your daughter's wedding gown using the best instruction is important.

He also makes it fun! I've taken a few of his on-line PR classes and I met him a few years ago. I love the guy.

Phyllis

------
Sewing = Fashion
http://coudremode.com/

Luck happens when preparation meets opportunity.

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Reply to ConnieBJ
Date: 10/9/08 8:48 AM

Thank you! The pictures are a big help. I could definitely do that. What is a waist stay? There is no waistline seam in the dress. Is that a problem? How did you attach the modesty panel in the back? Is it attached to the seam allowance? How far back did you turn the center back seam allowances to allow for room for the lacing? At this point, the center back meets, like for the zipper. I have no idea how much room the lacing should have.

I can do the loops. I'll start playing with scraps of fabric and see what I can do.

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Reply to Lizhonig
Date: 10/9/08 1:19 PM

A waist stay- (to quote Ann of Georgeous Things is -

Quote:

I think it is wonderful to make a corset! The waist stay is usually a piece of grosgrain or petersham ribbon, cut about 1 inch longer than your waist measurement, and it is sewn to the side seams of the inside of the garment at the waistline. Use a hook and eye closure on either end. Is that clear as mud? I have also had good luck using a length of 1-inch elastic, cut 2 inches shorter than your waist measurement, and attached to the inside of the garment at the side seams.

You said that you have a "foundation" - is that like an inner corset? If so, the waist stay should attach to that. A hint- I used a bra closure (found at any fabric store) insead of sewing hooks and eyes on to the waist stay. If you google "waist stay" you should be able to see some pics- I do not think I have any/
The modesty panel was hand sewin in on one side of the back opening and then hook and eyed to other. I think we made it extend about 1.5 inches in on either side.
As for the back opening - we experimented to get the "look" Kate was going for.
The loops are not too difficult and look great- I was not looking forward to doing a back closure like that but it is true that they fit more snugly.
I am now on to 2 more wedding dresses for 2 more daughters- glad I could remember details from the last one! My blog might have some more details as well.

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Connie Bontje

Attending - Philly PR Weekend AND Montreal PR Weekend - are you??
The website - www.couturesmith.com

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Reply to ConnieBJ
Date: 10/9/08 8:31 PM

The waist stay doesn't sound difficult at all. I think elastic is probably the best bet. So, it's attached at each seam and then closed in the back? A bra closure sounds like a wonderful idea.

The foundation piece is like a facing and is where the boning is sewn. You sew the boning over each of the seams. You know, I'll take a picture of it so you can see what it looks like. That should help. I thought it extended to the waist but it's shorter, actually. I can cut new pieces and extend it, though. I think it would be easier to attach the modesty panel to the foundation. The foundation will then be hand sewn to the inside of the center back opening.

Thank you so much. I've gotten so much help and encouragement but you're the only one who has done what I'm trying to do. I'll take some pictures and post them here.

Two more wedding dresses? God bless you. I have a younger daughter and when she gets married, she wants me to make the Folkwear empire dress for her. Talk about going from difficult to easy!

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