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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > sew invisibly? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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sew invisibly?
what does this mean?
ryankckids
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ryankckids
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Date: 2/22/06 11:52 PM

I'm newly back into sewing, and 2 of 4 patterns on which I've now worked have asked me to "sew invisibly". It always seems to be along a foldline (like the cuffs I just cut out), and in this case, is part of attaching the interfacing to the cuff. I can't remember what it was for last time, but I thing I just skipped it, and it turned out fine.

Is it a hand stitch where I just grab a few threads of the actual fabric and take long stitches on the wrong side?

TIA!

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heather

I **was** on a 2008 fabric fast. My numbers have been removed (for obvious reasons) ;-)

Nata
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Nata
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Date: 2/23/06 10:35 AM

I am not absolutely sure what the instructions are asking to do. Could you copy a few lines before and after the “sewing invisibly” direction?

As for the interfacing, are they talking about attaching sew-in interfacing? If so, then they are talking about blind stitching interfacing to your fashion fabric. I don’t know why you would need to do it for cuffs, though. Cuffs are not so wide and interfacing will be caught in the seams. It should hold it in place just fine. Now, if they are talking about interfacing the sleeve hem, then you would use hair canvas and bland stitch it in place. That’s for heavy jackets only, though.

Anyhow, please give us more info

------
Fabric bought in 2009: 30 yds
Fabrc sewn in 2009: 19 yds
Fabric stash: 145 yds

3 Garments IN and 6 Garments OUT

ryankckids
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ryankckids
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In reply to Nata


Date: 2/23/06 8:01 PM

Nata - thanks for replying...

Yes, it is sew-in interfacing.

The instructions read: "Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of FRONT BAND. Baste along seamlines. Sew invisibly along foldline. Stitch along seamline on long unnotched edge."

and "Pin INTERFACING to wrong side of CUFF. Baste. Stitch long unnotched edge along seamline. Sew invisibly along foldline"

Both pieces will end up edgestitched along the fold anyway, so what's the point of this step? Just to hold the interfacing in place and prevent it from shifting until the edgestitching goes in?

------
heather

I **was** on a 2008 fabric fast. My numbers have been removed (for obvious reasons) ;-)

BeckyC
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Date: 2/23/06 10:07 PM

I think stitch invisibly means to baste stitch as you thought because you'll be edge stitching it after sewing it all together.

I'm assuming you're only interfacing one-half of the cuff and one-half the depth of the waistband. But let's say you were interfacing the whole cuff and complete waistband, then they'd probably instruct you to sew along the foldline so the interfacing wouldn't bunch up accidently during the sewing process. Then when you'd edgestitch you'd catch all layers and remove the basting stitches. When fusibles are used it's not necessary to do this step.

Edited: Not sure where I got the waistband from, but I've seen these type of instructions on some of my older patterns.
-- Edited on 2/23/06 10:10 PM --

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I feed my soul by the stitches I sew.



ryankckids
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ryankckids
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In reply to BeckyC


Date: 2/24/06 0:01 AM

Becky - they actually have me interfacing the entire cuff, so that there will be 2 layers of interfacing. I'm guessing to give a crisper cuff?

An offshoot question...

Why sew-in interfacing anyway? I have both and just do what the pattern tells me, though I don't know why I haven't come across that answer in any of my books...

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heather

I **was** on a 2008 fabric fast. My numbers have been removed (for obvious reasons) ;-)

BeckyC
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In reply to ryankckids


Date: 2/24/06 9:00 AM

I'm guessing too, without knowing the content of the fabric you're using or the pattern that the reason to use the sew-in interfacing would be for a crisper look.

"Why sew-in interfacing?" I don't know why a current pattern would suggest sew-in interfacing unless the suggested fabrics were heat sensitive or would be dry cleaned. If you were tailoring a jacket or sewing a garment out of fabric that needs to be dry cleaned, you may not want to use a fusible -- as some fusibles don't do well in the dry cleaning process. Palmer & Pletsch fusible interfacings tell you right on the package if they can be dry cleaned or not. With the newer fusibles the iron's heat can be much lower than it was 20 years ago. I use fusible interfacing as much as possible, even on my silk that will be hand washed.

------
I feed my soul by the stitches I sew.



Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 2/24/06 9:54 AM

Most of the Big 3/4 patterns give instructions for *both* sew-in and fusible interfacing. The fusible is usually the next paragraph after the sew in.

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

ryankckids
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ryankckids
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In reply to BeckyC


Date: 2/24/06 10:58 AM

Its just a 97%cotton/3% lycra shirting. Its a princess-seamed button-down blouse with button/placket cufft Pretty traditional and straight-forward. The pattern doesn't specify stretch wovens, but I figured it would work fine (all the RTW shirts I see lately are made of this).

Come to think of it, the other pattern I used that specified sew-in interfacing was for a waistband on a Vogue jeans pattern that called for stretch wovens.

And Debbie - they do not say anything about fusible at all.

McCall's 4922 I'm working on view D.

Thank you for your help!!!!!

------
heather

I **was** on a 2008 fabric fast. My numbers have been removed (for obvious reasons) ;-)

BeckyC
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Date: 2/24/06 12:21 PM

Heather,

I haven't worked with stretch wovens yet, so you bring up a good question on what type of interfacing to use with it. I'll have to look carefully at the back of pattern envelopes that specify using stretch wovens -- I'd think a knit fusible interfacing would work well. I've recently added stretch wovens to my stash so I better figure it out before I cut into it. I'm sure others on PR could help out on this too.

Your blouse looks like a classic and I agree with you everything in RTW seems to have lycra in the fabric content. It does make the garment more comfortable.

------
I feed my soul by the stitches I sew.



Debbie Cook
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Debbie Cook
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Date: 2/24/06 12:26 PM

The problem with Big 3/4 pattern instructions (and the backs of envelopes Becky) is that they are using boilerplate instructions. Parts of the big database are cut/pasted into each pattern. It's not always the best or most up-to-date information, or even complete. It's just a basic.

Unless you're sewing couture or fine hand-tailoring, you can pretty much substitute an appropriate fusible for any sew-in interfacing. Of course there are exceptions and of course you need to substitute an appropriate weight/style of fusible. All of that depends on the pattern, the style, the fabric, and your preferences.

Recently printed third-party instruction books are better for this information than pattern instructions, or me. Check out the book reviews here on PR for members' favorites.


-- Edited on 2/24/06 12:27 PM --

------
--
"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com

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