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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > lining and zipper placement ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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lining and zipper placement
how do I place the lining to slipstitch it to the zipper?
Elemenopeo
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Elemenopeo
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 5/11/04
Posts: 402
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Date: 4/24/06 10:59 PM

I'm making my first lined skirt from a Burda WOF pattern, two dots. (I also did my first invisible zipper with it. I'm trying more tailored clothes for a change from my casual stuff and it's a learning curve that has me feeling like a beginner again.) Anyhow, I'm at the point where I'm to sew the waistbands together of lining and skirt. Done. Then I'm to turn allowances at opening edges to inside. I took that to mean that I turned them and sewed them down with the top of the skirt but I can unpick it if not. (do I just leave the seam allowance unsewn then there?) Then turn lining to inside and sew in place on zip bands, using a slip stitch.

What I'm trying to figure out is how to place the lining so I can slipstitch it to the zipper area. I've got big lumps at the waistband edge now the way I have it pinned in place and know it is wrong. I hope I'm making sense. I checked my basic sewing books and didn't see any clear explanation of this. Can anyone explain what I am to do? I'm so close to finishing this skirt.

------
Stefanie

katynairn

katynairn
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/3/03
Posts: 205
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In reply to Elemenopeo


Date: 4/25/06 2:16 AM

Cut and paste link
www.ca.uky.edu/fcs/FACTSHTS/CT-LMH.172.PDF

may help.

Does the skirt have an actual waistband, or is it faced at the waist edge?

-- Edited on 4/25/06 7:28 PM --

katynairn

katynairn
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AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/3/03
Posts: 205
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In reply to katynairn


Date: 4/25/06 2:47 AM

the opening edges could actually be a slit or something similar, rather than the waist. posting the line drawing of the skirt would help!

SewVeryTall
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SewVeryTall
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NE USA
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Date: 4/25/06 5:51 AM

I wonder if when you said "waistbands", you really meant "waistlines" [of the skirt and the lining].

If so, and there is no separate waistband or facing, I'm guessing the instructions want you to sew the lining to the skirt at the waistline, with right sides together, then turn right side out. If you press open the zipper-area seam allowances of the lining before you sew the waistline, then they will be in position and ready for you to hand sew the lining to the zipper.

I hope this helps.

------
Ardis

the lefthanded daughter of a lefthanded mother

mamafitz
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mamafitz
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Date: 4/25/06 8:56 AM

like ardis said, if your seam allowance are pressed open (finger pressing would be fine), they should just fall into place along the zipper.

here's the lining of my SIL's wedding gown stitched down to the zipper (i prickstitch linings down so they won't roll and get caught in the zipper):
lining attached to zipper

------
Linda

Girls do not dress for boys. They dress for themselves, and of course, each other. If girls dressed for boys, they’d just walk around naked at all times.
-- Betsey Johnson


http://mamafitz.blogspot.com

CatherineN

CatherineN
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CO USA
Member since 4/8/02
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Date: 4/25/06 12:12 PM

katynairn, that link for lining does not work. Can you find the right link. I think it will be helpful to read.

------
CatherineN

Nata
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Nata
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USA
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Date: 4/25/06 1:10 PM

It seems from your description that your skirt does not have a waistband. In this case, lining is used to finish the top skirt edge, am I correct? If so, are you turning your seam allowances under the wrong way? When you baste the lining to the skirt, you need to put them rigtht sides together. Then baste lining to the skirt starting at the side seam (one w/o zipper) matching side seams and darts. Baste up to the zipper, stopping slightly before the teeth, about 3/16". Then fold the leftover lining SA back onto the basting stitches you just made. It should be very close to the width of your SA, a little more because you stopped basting short of the actual seam line. This way your SA are actually turned over, not under. Hope I am making sense. Then you need to stitch lining to skirt from zipper, and turn your lining to the inside. You will have very clean finish w/o bumps. You can, then stitch lining SA to the zipper band, either machine stitch, or slipstitch.

------
Fabric bought in 2009: 30 yds
Fabrc sewn in 2009: 19 yds
Fabric stash: 145 yds

3 Garments IN and 6 Garments OUT

Elemenopeo
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Elemenopeo
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 5/11/04
Posts: 402
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Date: 4/25/06 5:12 PM

Thanks Nata - that is how the skirt is put together and I just didn't understand what to do with the seam allowance part of the lining that goes down into the zipper area. I left it unstitched and it all went together without lumps and bumps.

I'm still unclear on how to line up the lining to slipstitch it to the zipper area. Here is a photo of what I have now. Hope it is clear enough:
zipper area lining

Thank you all so much for helping me. I'm taking as many classes as I can on PR to improve my skills but haven't had any on this area yet.

------
Stefanie

Nata
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Nata
Intermediate
USA
Member since 8/20/02
Posts: 1252
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Date: 4/25/06 7:34 PM

Stefanie, I think I know why you are confused. You stitched lining to the skirt too far. Before you stitch lining to skirt waist you need to turn zipper band onto the skirt. You can do it easily by zipping the zipper closed and pressing it through the presscloth. Zipper teeth will be the edge. Zipper band will be laying inside the skirt, on your photo it's laying on the outside, so to speak. You'll need to keep zipper band inside when stitching lining to skirt. It should look like this Right side of fabric is shown in dark, wrong side in light color.

Then you'll need to turn SA on your lining to the wrong side. Lining will look like picture above w/o zipper. Then lay lining over skirt right sides together and stitch along the waistline stoping short of the zipper teeth. Your stitching will actually catch the zipper band on one side and lining SA on the other side.

------
Fabric bought in 2009: 30 yds
Fabrc sewn in 2009: 19 yds
Fabric stash: 145 yds

3 Garments IN and 6 Garments OUT

katynairn

katynairn
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 5/3/03
Posts: 205
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In reply to Elemenopeo


Date: 4/25/06 7:42 PM

Not sure how to explain this. Undo about an inch of the lining-to-waist-of-skirt seam.

Then flip the zip over, so that the zipper teeth become the part of the zipper that is closest to the opening.
It may help you to do the zip up temporarily, so you can see the way it has to sit.

At the edge of the zip, you have 4 layers
1) outer skirt fabric (what you see)
2) folded back zipper tape and outer fabric seam allowance
3) folded lining (as Nata described) seam allowance
4) lining

Kate

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