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Kenneth King vs. "European Cut"
ladybegood
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ladybegood  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/15/06 7:24 PM

I've been mulling over getting the Kenneth King moulage CD book, and then I saw the thread about his pants draft book and the comparisons people were making to "European Cut". I know people have had success with both, but I'm wondering if the different methods might address different needs. I'm now leaning towards "European Cut" just because all the major slopers are addressed in one book vs. having to get 3 CD's for King's program. Also, I kind of like having an actual book. But, of couse if one had definite strengths over the other, that would be the deciding factor.
Do you think the different methods favor certain body types or certain learning styles? Also, "European Cut" ONLY addresses drafting the basic block, not anything more design related. Is there design oriented info in the King books that goes above and beyond what I might find in other books?

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"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

Shannon Gifford
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Shannon Gifford
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In reply to ladybegood


Date: 5/15/06 8:04 PM

No. Both King and Allemong deal only with the primary draft. There is minimal information about developing style blocks in each, but better information about this step can be found in other sources.
As to the differences between the two...I'm in the midst of testing the pant drafts of each and comparing them. I have some preliminary conclusions, but need to test them on other body types to be certain. I will say this: the resulting pant drafts are different from one another. I'll report more when I have more to report:)
Shannon

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You did make a muslin, didn't you?

GorgeousFabrics
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GorgeousFabrics
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In reply to Shannon Gifford


Date: 5/15/06 10:18 PM

Shannon, I agree with you. But I have to ask - which soucres do you recommend for the initial draft?

Thanks!
Ann

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CSY
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Subject: Kenneth King vs. European Cut Date: 5/15/06 10:23 PM

On Kenneth Kings: It is a method that will produce a pair of pants. Method assumes one body type. They may or may not require some kind of alteration. This can be said of any drafting method which makes certain assumptions about the body that is being drafted for. You can print out the CD book and put it in a binder and you will have a book you can hold in your hand. Content is excellent. Chapter on improving the fit is well written.

E. Allemongs book. Also well written. Does not assume the body type. Different crotch curves in front and back depending on fullness of abdomen and buttocks. This draft pretty much fit me on the first round. I was very pleased.

Once you have a basic fit block you can get almost any pattern drafting book with pants and manipulate your sloper for the pants you want. Or you can compare the sloper to commercial patterns and alter to match the areas of fit you require.

Shannon Gifford
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Shannon Gifford
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In reply to GorgeousFabrics


Date: 5/15/06 10:34 PM

Ann, I love anything written by Adele Margolis, and this is no exception. Her patternmaking book has what I think are the best instructions for developing design blocks from a sloper.
My second choice would be "Bodymapping"; she has several design blocks illustrated and diagrammed.

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You did make a muslin, didn't you?

ladybegood
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ladybegood  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/15/06 10:46 PM

Thanks ladies, but I think that I should clarify that I'm not just interested in the pants draft. Actually, I have some RTW pants that fit me well, so when I get around to doing pants, I'm just going to copy those. I'm more concerned with the torso and sleeve blocks tho. I can't get anything to fit right those areas!

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

G_l_e_n_d_a
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G_l_e_n_d_a
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Date: 5/15/06 10:59 PM

KK has some special instructions for fitting women who have large breasts. He feels he has really advanced the fitting field with his approach. I can't speak for how well it works from personal experience as I am not particularly blessed :-) but I know he is very proud of that aspect of his bodice instructions.

ladybegood
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ladybegood  Friend of PR
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In reply to Shannon Gifford


Date: 5/16/06 3:58 PM

Shannon,

Does Adele Margolis have instructions for drafting a sloper in any of her books? I have heard some good things about her books, but I kinda have tunnel vision on the sloper drafting right now.

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

Shannon Gifford
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Shannon Gifford
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In reply to ladybegood


Date: 5/16/06 4:13 PM

If there are any of her books that have sloper drafting, I haven't seen them. The patternmaking book begins with a sloper; she assumes that you already have something useable for a sloper. Everything from the point of the sloper to finished design is covered, however, making the patternmaking book very valuable.
I really like the Allemong drafting method so far. I've only done the pants yet, but intend to do the bodice within a few days. I've done all the Moulage drafts, bodice, pants, and sleeves. The bodice is a superb fit.

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You did make a muslin, didn't you?

Sewliz
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Sewliz  Friend of PR
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Date: 5/16/06 7:13 PM

I really like Kenneth King's Moulage. It is a perfect fit. The moulage is a second skin fit and KK shows how to make a sloper from the moulage and how to add wearing ease for a blouse and jacket. His style of writing is charming and fun and the CD has a little video in the beginning demonstrating how to measure all the required measurements. It is on a CD though and I like books better too, so I printed it out and put it in a notebook.

I have read European cut but haven't tried it yet. I think I got pattern drafting overload there for a while and just put it aside!

If you want design information along with sloper drafting basics you might look at Helen Joseph Armstrong's book Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Along with drafting slopers for bodice, sleeves, skirt, and pants, there is a ton of information on things like manipulating darts for style changes, adding fullness for gathers and pleats, changing patterns for stretch fabrics and for bias, the difference in trousers, pants, and jeans, almost everything, it's great.

My personal preference for a draft is the moulage because it ends up with princess seams, is a full torso thing, and has no wearing ease which makes sense in my brain. Patternmaking for Fashion Design's method creates a sloper like the pattern companies show with darts and has some ease included.

And if you are really good with numbers and minimal instructions you can go to Leena's site and make drafts without buying any books at all.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

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