Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Kenneth King vs. "European Cut"

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Kenneth King vs. "European Cut"
ladybegood
starstar
ladybegood  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 5/19/03
Posts: 1155

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/15/06 7:24 PM

I've been mulling over getting the Kenneth King moulage CD book, and then I saw the thread about his pants draft book and the comparisons people were making to "European Cut". I know people have had success with both, but I'm wondering if the different methods might address different needs. I'm now leaning towards "European Cut" just because all the major slopers are addressed in one book vs. having to get 3 CD's for King's program. Also, I kind of like having an actual book. But, of couse if one had definite strengths over the other, that would be the deciding factor.
Do you think the different methods favor certain body types or certain learning styles? Also, "European Cut" ONLY addresses drafting the basic block, not anything more design related. Is there design oriented info in the King books that goes above and beyond what I might find in other books?

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

Shannon Gifford
star
Shannon Gifford
Advanced
GA USA
Member since 3/20/02
Posts: 419
Online Class Instructor
Login to reply to this post

In reply to ladybegood


Date: 5/15/06 8:04 PM

No. Both King and Allemong deal only with the primary draft. There is minimal information about developing style blocks in each, but better information about this step can be found in other sources.
As to the differences between the two...I'm in the midst of testing the pant drafts of each and comparing them. I have some preliminary conclusions, but need to test them on other body types to be certain. I will say this: the resulting pant drafts are different from one another. I'll report more when I have more to report:)
Shannon

------
You did make a muslin, didn't you?

GorgeousFabrics
starstarstarstar
GorgeousFabrics
Expert/Couture
USA
Member since 8/12/02
Posts: 2934
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Shannon Gifford


Date: 5/15/06 10:18 PM

Shannon, I agree with you. But I have to ask - which soucres do you recommend for the initial draft?

Thanks!
Ann

------
Gorgeous Fabrics - the name says it all!
http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com
http://blog.gorgeousfabrics.com/

CSY
star
CSY  Friend of PR
Advanced
CA USA
Member since 2/1/03
Posts: 301
Login to reply to this post

Subject: Kenneth King vs. European Cut Date: 5/15/06 10:23 PM

On Kenneth Kings: It is a method that will produce a pair of pants. Method assumes one body type. They may or may not require some kind of alteration. This can be said of any drafting method which makes certain assumptions about the body that is being drafted for. You can print out the CD book and put it in a binder and you will have a book you can hold in your hand. Content is excellent. Chapter on improving the fit is well written.

E. Allemongs book. Also well written. Does not assume the body type. Different crotch curves in front and back depending on fullness of abdomen and buttocks. This draft pretty much fit me on the first round. I was very pleased.

Once you have a basic fit block you can get almost any pattern drafting book with pants and manipulate your sloper for the pants you want. Or you can compare the sloper to commercial patterns and alter to match the areas of fit you require.

Shannon Gifford
star
Shannon Gifford
Advanced
GA USA
Member since 3/20/02
Posts: 419
Online Class Instructor
Login to reply to this post

In reply to GorgeousFabrics


Date: 5/15/06 10:34 PM

Ann, I love anything written by Adele Margolis, and this is no exception. Her patternmaking book has what I think are the best instructions for developing design blocks from a sloper.
My second choice would be "Bodymapping"; she has several design blocks illustrated and diagrammed.

------
You did make a muslin, didn't you?

ladybegood
starstar
ladybegood  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 5/19/03
Posts: 1155

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/15/06 10:46 PM

Thanks ladies, but I think that I should clarify that I'm not just interested in the pants draft. Actually, I have some RTW pants that fit me well, so when I get around to doing pants, I'm just going to copy those. I'm more concerned with the torso and sleeve blocks tho. I can't get anything to fit right those areas!

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

G_l_e_n_d_a
star
G_l_e_n_d_a
Advanced Beginner
CA USA
Member since 5/11/05
Posts: 1115
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/15/06 10:59 PM

KK has some special instructions for fitting women who have large breasts. He feels he has really advanced the fitting field with his approach. I can't speak for how well it works from personal experience as I am not particularly blessed :-) but I know he is very proud of that aspect of his bodice instructions.

ladybegood
starstar
ladybegood  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 5/19/03
Posts: 1155

Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Shannon Gifford


Date: 5/16/06 3:58 PM

Shannon,

Does Adele Margolis have instructions for drafting a sloper in any of her books? I have heard some good things about her books, but I kinda have tunnel vision on the sloper drafting right now.

------
"Creativity is the residue of time wasted." Albert Einstein.
No wonder I just keep getting more and more creative!

Shannon Gifford
star
Shannon Gifford
Advanced
GA USA
Member since 3/20/02
Posts: 419
Online Class Instructor
Login to reply to this post

In reply to ladybegood


Date: 5/16/06 4:13 PM

If there are any of her books that have sloper drafting, I haven't seen them. The patternmaking book begins with a sloper; she assumes that you already have something useable for a sloper. Everything from the point of the sloper to finished design is covered, however, making the patternmaking book very valuable.
I really like the Allemong drafting method so far. I've only done the pants yet, but intend to do the bodice within a few days. I've done all the Moulage drafts, bodice, pants, and sleeves. The bodice is a superb fit.

------
You did make a muslin, didn't you?

Sewliz
star
Sewliz  Friend of PR
CO USA
Member since 6/22/04
Posts: 4315
Login to reply to this post

Date: 5/16/06 7:13 PM

I really like Kenneth King's Moulage. It is a perfect fit. The moulage is a second skin fit and KK shows how to make a sloper from the moulage and how to add wearing ease for a blouse and jacket. His style of writing is charming and fun and the CD has a little video in the beginning demonstrating how to measure all the required measurements. It is on a CD though and I like books better too, so I printed it out and put it in a notebook.

I have read European cut but haven't tried it yet. I think I got pattern drafting overload there for a while and just put it aside!

If you want design information along with sloper drafting basics you might look at Helen Joseph Armstrong's book Patternmaking for Fashion Design. Along with drafting slopers for bodice, sleeves, skirt, and pants, there is a ton of information on things like manipulating darts for style changes, adding fullness for gathers and pleats, changing patterns for stretch fabrics and for bias, the difference in trousers, pants, and jeans, almost everything, it's great.

My personal preference for a draft is the moulage because it ends up with princess seams, is a full torso thing, and has no wearing ease which makes sense in my brain. Patternmaking for Fashion Design's method creates a sloper like the pattern companies show with darts and has some ease included.

And if you are really good with numbers and minimal instructions you can go to Leena's site and make drafts without buying any books at all.

------
Liz

thefittinglife.blogspot.com

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting >> Kenneth King vs. "European Cut"

Merchants on PR
Victoria Jones Collection
Timeless Hawaiian styles
Web site
So Vintage Patterns
Thank You for Joining!
Deals!
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts
Fee: $39.99
(Regular $39.99)
Fun with Fitting - BODICE w Darts

Online Sewing Classes
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Beginners Guide to Sewing Jackets

New Look 6571
photo
Review by MiamiNice on 10/15/08
Read Review

Vogue 8958 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )
Vogue 8958 Pattern ( Size 14-16-18-20-22 )

Details
Price: $27.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCalls 6973 Pattern ( Size SML-MED-LRG )
McCalls 6973 Pattern ( Size SML-MED-LRG )

Details
Price: $18.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

McCall's 6292
photo
Review by sunflower2... on 7/17/12
Read Review

MariaDenmark Audrey Dress Digital Pattern ( Sized For C-Cup Bust )
MariaDenmark Audrey Dress Digital Pattern ( Sized For C-Cup Bust )

Details
Price: $9.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Peek-A Boo V-Neck Cardigan Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -12 years )
Peek-A Boo V-Neck Cardigan Digital Pattern ( Size 3 mo -12 years )

Details
Price: $7.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Islander Sewing Systems Men's Designer Dress Shirt Pattern
Islander Sewing Systems Men's Designer Dress Shirt Pattern

Details
Price: $19.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Petite Plus 303 Pattern
Petite Plus 303 Pattern

Details
Price: $21.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN