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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > lowering bust point on a princess-seamed garment

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lowering bust point on a princess-seamed garment
cleo
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cleo
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California USA
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Date: 6/12/06 4:13 PM

I've just finished my first version (wearable muslin) of the Hotpatterns princess shirt, and I think what I need to do in order for it to fit better is to lower the bust point about an inch. I've seen how to do this for a darted top, but not for princess seams. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Link to princess shirt review, including pictures

Liana
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Liana
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Nebraska USA
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Date: 6/12/06 4:33 PM

In FFRP they tell how to do this. You basically cut out the area with the bust point (on the pattern) and move it to the right position, and then blend your lines. You need to do both pieces so they match. It works beautifully, although it might be a good idea to take a look at the book. Some McCall's P/P patterns include this alteration right on the pattern and instructions in case you need it. It's a great way to do this the first time, but it's not really hard anyway. Good luck!

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Liana
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jeanbluecat
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jeanbluecat
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Illinois USA
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Date: 6/12/06 4:34 PM

How to lower a bust point on a princess seam. Locate the bust point on the pattern and about four inches above the point and four inches below the point, draw lines that are parallel to each other and perpendicular to the grainline on the pattern. Draw the lines into the pattern toward the side seam line. Draw a third line from the top line you have just drawn to the bottom line, parallel to the grainline on the pattern. With these markings, you have sectioned-off the area around the bust point. The area you have sectioned-off should look similar to a square with one wavey side (the bust point).

Now, you cut that 'square' out of the pattern and slide it down as much as you want to lower the bust point. You will need to make sure you don't tilt the pattern, keep the horizontal lines parallel to one another. Use tissue to fill in the empty space you you will create when you slide the piece down. Tape the piece in place and lay-out for cutting.

HTH
Debra

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I sew, therefore I am.

cleo
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cleo
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California USA
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Posts: 8
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Date: 6/12/06 4:42 PM

Thanks very much Liana and jeanbluecat! So with this 'moving the bust box down' (which is quite like what you do for a darted front as well), I don't alter the side seam or the armhole at all, correct? The lines I'll be redrawing are: the princess seam on the side front, and the princess seam on the center front?

TIA!

cleo
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cleo
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California USA
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Date: 6/12/06 4:49 PM

Also, based on the photos of my blouse, do you think my "lower bust point" fitting assessment is correct?

funsewer
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funsewer
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Alberta CANADA
Member since 11/6/04
Posts: 234
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In reply to cleo


Date: 6/12/06 4:58 PM

Quote: cleo
Also, based on the photos of my blouse, do you think my "lower bust point" fitting assessment is correct?

Yes. What a lovely blouse pattern -- really nice collar!!
I think that you will be very pleased with the look once you lower your bust point.
cleo
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cleo
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California USA
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Date: 6/12/06 10:04 PM

Thanks everyone. I redrafted the side front this afternoon according to your suggestions, and here's what I get:



link to image

Notice that because of the way the bust princess seam angles (it's almost parallel to the grainline), when I slide the piece down and redraw the lines, I end up removing a fair amount of width ABOVE the bust, but almost nothing below. Does this seem right? It seems like I should somehow be adding some fabric below a certain point, just as I'm removing it above, if that makes sense.

Should I also redraw a bit of the side seam, between the bottom of the armscye and where the old/new side seams intersect? This would add a little bit in the bust/underbust area I think.

Thanks again everyone!

funsewer
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funsewer
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Alberta CANADA
Member since 11/6/04
Posts: 234
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In reply to cleo


Date: 6/13/06 2:37 AM

I notice that the armscye is also lower - are you altering this also?

As far as removing fabric above the bust, well, when I look at the photo in your review you have a bubble of excess fabric above the bust (where the pattern's bust point was) that you want to see gone after you lower the bust point so, yes, I think it's OK that you are removing fabric above the bust.

I cannot tell from the photo if the blouse felt tight in the bust. If it did, I would measure the pattern and see if lowering the bust point increased the bust measurement and if it did not, you may want to also increase the bust. If you slash the pattern to increase the bust, then you will see that it lengthens the princess seam so you will have to lengthen the front to correspond.

I am not a super expert here but would you have to lower the bust point on the front pattern piece as well as the side front? I hope that someone else chimes in here.

I am very interested in this as I am just now making the Petite Plus princess seam dress. It's OK but I will get a better fit if I cut a smaller size in the shoulders and increase (and lower) the bust point. I have done this before but I am learning many new tricks here at PR so I'm very interested in what others have to say here.

cheers -- looking good --
jean

cleo
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cleo
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California USA
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Date: 6/13/06 4:10 PM

I wasn't planning on redrawing any of the other lines except the princess line on the side front - so, no, I haven't lowered the armscye. It fits well as is, so I think making it bigger/lower would be problematic. Good point about the center front pieces though. I tried to do the same thing (moving the bust area lower) but, because of the angle (which is like a diagonal curve instead of a clear "bump") I'm not sure how to redraw the line, and where to keep the original vs. the lowered line...

Just for my own benefit, I also made a separate version of the side front using a small-bust adjustment instead of sliding the bust point down. From the hem to the bust area, the patterns are almost identical, and then above the bottom of the armscye the small-bust-adjusted pattern is just at an angle.

So I'm still wondering if I'm going to end up with enough room in the bust..

funsewer
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funsewer
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Alberta CANADA
Member since 11/6/04
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Date: 6/13/06 4:24 PM

In addition to lowering the bust, you can increase it somewhat.
There is a description of a princess seam FBA here

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=13047



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