SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Forum > Plus Size Sewing > FBA woes! ( Moderated by JEF)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
FBA woes!
stitchwitch
star
stitchwitch
Advanced Beginner
International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/26/04
Posts: 19
Send Message

      



Date: 7/23/06 6:24 PM

I made myself a sleeveless blouse (butterick 6085) - very simple with one side dart and a collar - using my upper chest measurement to select a size 20 neck and shoulders and bust and used the multisize pattern lines for a size 24 waist and hips. I made an FBA of 1 inch which also helped with my front waist extra weight.

Now, I was under the impression that the upper chest measurement guide was for a better fit above the bust . Well, the neck is too small for me and I have had to do a broad back increase from the hem through the shoulder seam. The shoulder length is ok and central although I had to lessen the slope a little. I am left with a fold of fabric just below the back of my neck and I haven't a clue what is causing it - any suggestions? I have explored the possibilty of square shoulders and a high curve in my back when I made the muslin - these didnot help. Although the neck line was tight, the blouse is an open neck design so I left it alone. Do you think that the fold is related to a tight back neck seam and that I should have scooped it out? I think I would have had much less hassle just cutting out a size 24 top all over........

If you have managed to get to the end of this - thankyou. I am really cheesed off with this blouse! I will post a review in the next couple of weeks.
Wendy

PatM

PatM  Friend of PR
Intermediate
South Australia Australia
Member since 12/31/02
Posts: 372
Send Message

      



In reply to stitchwitch


Date: 7/24/06 0:00 AM

Sounds like you might have started with the wrong size, what size do you usually use? Which part fits on the size 20 pattern? Measure your finished garment and see how it compares to the measurements from the pattern tissue for a 20, 22 and 24. I have just gone through this process with a jacket pattern, I cut a 20, on a Burda magazine plus pattern, first using a high bust measurement, but it was tight allover but the shoulders fitted well. then I made a 22 and narrowed the shoulders and did not do a FBA, and after all may length and bust point adjustments, it seems to fit well, on the muslin anyway.

------
Pat
In Adelaide now

Cathy Loves Fabric
star
Cathy Loves Fabric  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 4/16/04
Posts: 1886
Send Message

      



In reply to stitchwitch


Date: 7/24/06 0:24 AM

The difference may depend on whether you have smaller or larger shoulders. A large number of large busted, plus size women have smaller shoulders and necklines and that formula works very well for them (and me). But obvious not everyone. Sorry it didn't work for you. How frustrating.

Is there anyway to post a picture before you complete the top? I wasn't able to completely follow the description all the way through. but someone might be able to diagnose the problem in a picture.

------
My hope is to sew to the very end. They'll find my head slumped over my precious Kenmore 19606 and have to pry the seam ripper from my cold, dead hands.

stitchwitch
star
stitchwitch
Advanced Beginner
International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/26/04
Posts: 19
Send Message

      



In reply to Cathy Loves Fabric


Date: 7/24/06 3:39 AM

Hi Pat and Kathy!

Kathy, I think that you are right about the narrow shoulders/large bust combo working more when taking this high bust measurement. I donot have small shoulders and I think the 20 for the upper body was too small, Pat. I did it this way because I am between a C and D cup and some of the more popular fitting books recommend making up a pattern based on the high bust number when larger than a B cup.

Grrr! That will teach me to follow ideas blindly!

I realise a picture paints a thousand words but I am visiting family for the next few days so no time for a photo. Thanks for working through the words though!

Wendy

Irene Q
starstarstarstar
Irene Q  Friend of PR
Intermediate
New Hampshire USA
Member since 3/19/04
Posts: 2544
Send Message

      



Date: 7/24/06 10:05 AM

I know most people go by the high bust measurement, but I use the high bust plus 2", which gives me the size I would wear if I were a B cup. Then I do a FBA to add 2" (1" each side), which brings me up to my full bust measurement. I do this mostly out of laziness. It's a lot easier to do the smaller FBA, plus I can usually avoid making the sleeves bigger. At the smaller size, the sleeves are always too tight and it's easier for me to make the shoulder a little higher (or live with it slightly too large!) than to deal with a skin-tight sleeve.

Edited to add: Since you're a size 20-24 and a C/D cup (hey, that's just about my size!), you might want to try Burda patterns or Vogue's Sandra Betzina patterns. Both of these are drafted for a C cup and you may be able to choose the pattern by your full bust measurement and skip the FBA altogether! The same goes for the Kwik Sew plus sizes, although they tend to run large through the shoulders.
-- Edited on 7/24/06 10:10 AM --

stitchwitch
star
stitchwitch
Advanced Beginner
International UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 8/26/04
Posts: 19
Send Message

      



In reply to Irene Q


Date: 7/24/06 3:54 PM

Thanks for your comments, Irene. I see the logic in your approach to choosing your size. And coincidentally, I made a sleeveless zip top from the plus version of Burda WOF (first time I have ever used anything from this source) and was really pleased with the outcome - quite right too - no FBA necessary. Also, the dart had to be lifted up a little which makes a change from going south I would have made another top in the same style, but I am trying to use up my stash and didn't have another fabric that would have worked so well with this pattern blue top front

and back of top

I will review this when I get back home.

Wendy

Cathy Loves Fabric
star
Cathy Loves Fabric  Friend of PR
Intermediate
USA
Member since 4/16/04
Posts: 1886
Send Message

      



In reply to stitchwitch


Date: 7/24/06 5:53 PM

Oh, Wow, this top looks great! What a perfect fit. For a minute I thought you had posted pictures of the top with which you had problems and I thought "I can't find anything wrong here", lol.

------
My hope is to sew to the very end. They'll find my head slumped over my precious Kenmore 19606 and have to pry the seam ripper from my cold, dead hands.

Sherril Miller
starstarstarstar
Sherril Miller  Friend of PR
Advanced
California USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 7492
Send Message

      



Date: 7/24/06 6:06 PM

From the look of the things you've made it looks like you don't have small shoulders. You also look like you have square shoulders too. I completely agree with Irene's advise of using a size or two larger than your upper bust measurement and then do a smaller FBA. I does look like you've made a few things that fit very nicely. You can use that blue shirt pattern and modify it for all types of shirts. Buy a simple pattern drafting book and then add a button placket, collar and steal a sleeve from another pattern that will fit and you've got a great wardrobe staple in that pattern. Change the neckline to u-shaped or V-shaped for another version of this sleeveless one. The variations are endless and they will all fit just as great as this one if you keep using this pattern. I never liked re-inventing the wheel over and over again. So don't bother.

------
Visit my blog at http://sewingsaga.blogspot.com

If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST! - TSL

PatM

PatM  Friend of PR
Intermediate
South Australia Australia
Member since 12/31/02
Posts: 372
Send Message

      



In reply to stitchwitch


Date: 7/24/06 11:55 PM

The blue top looks fine. Burda Plus patterns are drafted with a C cup, that's why the pattern worked without an FBA. Have a read of the thread called Plus size fitting, it has some good ideas.

------
Pat
In Adelaide now

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Plus Size Sewing >> FBA woes!

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Online Class
Fit the Tee to a T
Fit the Tee to a T

Class Details

Online Class
Blueprints to Blue Jeans
Blueprints to Blue Jeans

Class Details

Sew Chic Valentine Slip Pattern (ln1207)

Sew Chic Valentine Slip Pattern (ln1207)

More Info
Sew Liberated Aida Top Pattern

Sew Liberated Aida Top Pattern

More Info

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.