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Forum > Fitting Woes > Altering shoulder width ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Altering shoulder width
it seems I have VERY narrow shoulders
Tini
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Tini
GERMANY
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Date: 8/21/06 2:38 PM

O.k. I'm working on a patrones pattern
Patrones 236 model 68
that is the one the farest on the right side.... sorry I couldn't find another one...

instead of making it out of "jacket fabric" you know, boiled wool or felt, I decided to make a muslin out of some thin fleece I had in my stash... thus I omitted the zipper at the sleeves ( not that could see them in the drawing and I don't speak spanish )

But my problem is, that my shoulder width seems so be a lot less then the models and I'm not going to insert shoulder pads into a lounging fleece jacketI have more fleece in my stash and had planned to make another one :)

SO here is the picture
click to get to my flickr album

I need to get rid of a couple of cm at the shoulder ( no I don't like this style ) plus I need to redraft the sleevecap. ( and rotate the sleeve, but I have some hints by els, that I want to try out for soooo long ). How do I redraft the sleeve?

Thank you in advance :)
-- Edited on 8/21/06 2:39 PM --
-- Edited on 8/21/06 2:41 PM --

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HawkeMorningStar7
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HawkeMorningStar7  Friend of PR
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In reply to Tini <<


Date: 8/21/06 3:00 PM

Hi Tini
You mean you don't like the "dropped sleeve look"
Gosh, I wouldnt know where to begin to redraft a sleeve. Looks really wide to begin with on model, padded to bootMayb els can help more

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ryan's mom
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ryan's mom  Friend of PR
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In reply to Tini <<


Date: 8/21/06 5:03 PM

A few points to ponder here since I made a jacket with a similar fitting issue last March.

I have to narrow my shoulders by approximately 1" in a Big 4 size 12. Another issue I must face is that my shoulders are nice and round. So I definitely need to add height to the sleeve cap, of course, rotate the sleeve forward because of my forward shoulders. Some of the sleeve height added (I do it between the notches) is basically experimentation for me. I add about 1 1/2" to the SA between the notches just in case and let out or trim away if necessary.

One thing I forgot about is to check your sleeve length with these alterations. I forgot and wished my sleeve was a bit longer. The shoulder ball and narrowing the shoulder takes up some of that length if your shoulders are rounded.

Not a fitting wiz on my end, but have faced a similar issue with my jacket.

------
Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight. Sergers: Babylock Imagine and Babylock Enlighten. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Coverstitch: Babylock BLCS. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.

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slanden99
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Date: 8/21/06 6:42 PM

Here's how I altered my Ottobre t-shirt for my narrow upper chest/shoulders I'm only narrow in the front, so I didn't alter the back the same way. If you need to alter the back in the same way, you'll need to adjust the back of the sleeve the same as the front of the sleeve.
For my t-shirt, the sleeves were already set-in sleeves--I was just a little too narrow. To change the sleeves to set-in sleeves instead of dropped sleeves, you'll need to raise the sleeve cap Here's a comparison of a dropped sleeve and set-in sleeve The set-in sleeve is on top. You could borrow a set-in sleeve from another pattern and adjust it to fit.
-- Edited on 8/21/06 6:43 PM --

slanden99
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slanden99
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Date: 8/21/06 7:06 PM

Here's a comparison of set-in and dropped sleeve armscyes on the front of a shirt I made DH The original pattern was a set-in sleeve armscye, the pen lin is a dropped sleeve armscye. If you need to alter the armscye shape, you can use another pattern to give you the basic shape you want (idea from Debbie Cook).

ladybegood
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In reply to Tini <<


Date: 8/23/06 2:08 PM

I agree with Hawke that the jacket looks like it is designed for a shoulder pad, so maybe you can do a search on omitting shoulder pads for more specific info.
-- Edited on 8/23/06 2:09 PM --

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Mlle Laura
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Mlle Laura
International FRANCE
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In reply to Tini <<


Date: 8/23/06 2:45 PM

Hi Tini,

Just a thought, but it looks to me that the whole jacket is a little big for you and that you could go down a size. The vertical wrinkle you have parallel to the armhole suggests it is too wide across the chest too. What size are you using?

I have this issue of Patrones, and judging by the line drawing, the design doesn't seem to have a dropped shoulder for it to look that low. (It looks, rather, to be fairly square - but I find sometimes that their line drawings are not completely accurate). I would try going down a size and see how that fits before redrafting the sleeve.

I expect your fleece is stretchy too, which could be distorting the fit, so perhaps you could use a fabric with no stretch which is more similar to your fashion fabric. It may be that in a non-stretch fabric that this very same size will be more fitted.

Els' hints for rotating the sleeve sound interesting - are they posted here on PR?

Lara

KAB
KAB
Pennsylvania USA
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Date: 8/23/06 2:58 PM

Tini,

I agree with Laura that the jacket (great style) looks a bit too big overall. You have too much chest room, a little excess that runs under your armpit down towards the hem, and even the neckline, as it curves around your neck. looks a bit roomy. Maybe one size down will be perfect?

Kate

mrspenguin
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mrspenguin
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In reply to slanden99 <<


Date: 10/10/06 11:55 PM

Slanden,
Thank you so so so much for the picture of your alteration for narrow shoulders. I have made about three muslins now of a bodice for dd and could not get my head around how to bring in the shoulders. Tomorrow, after sleep, I will try your method. Wish me luck!

Karen Nutbrown
Karen Nutbrown
British Columbia CANADA
Member since 12/20/02
Posts: 65
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Date: 10/13/06 10:50 AM

I printed out your picture link to narrow the shoulder width but don't quite understand if you need to do an adjustment to the back of the pattern piece and back of the sleeve. Am I missing something?

(Probably not too bright these days.)

Thanks for your help.

Karen

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