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Tips for sewing faux suede and faux leather
Please share with me your tips for sewing faux suede and faux leather
RuthieSews
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RuthieSews
Intermediate
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 1/1/06
Posts: 1293
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Date: 8/27/06 4:56 AM

I bought some deep red faux leather and some burgundy faux suede recently.
The faux leather is to cover drop in dining room chair seats but I bought the whole piece which is several metres, so there will be some left over to sew something into a garment (it was labelled dress weight). I also bought some in green to cover the 1970s kitchen chairs but DH says we should replace them instead so that's on hold for now.
I also picked up some burgundy faux suede which I fancied as a skirt and jacket (and maybe pants?).
I have a teflon foot for my Janome sewing machine and I also have a leather needle (although I thought that as its faux a regular ballpoint needle would be OK)

Those of you who have sewn these types of fabrics before, can you advise any problems you encountered, tips on garment choices etc.

Thanks RuthieK

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Sewing in Derbyshire, England
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.com/

BJ1400
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BJ1400
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West Virginia USA
Member since 10/29/03
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In reply to RuthieSews


Date: 8/27/06 9:03 AM

I also recently bought some red faux suede. I plan to make a jacket. I'm not sure how to handle it either. So I would be interested in any tips also.

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Beverly.

Sewing Makes Me Happy

http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com

KAB
KAB
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Pennsylvania USA
Member since 4/9/06
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In reply to RuthieSews


Date: 8/27/06 9:52 AM

Ruthie and Beverly,

For faux leather, I use a teflon foot and and a stretch needle. If you don't have a stretch needle, I think I'd use a regular needle rather than a ballpoint needle as you do need "piercing" power. If you're planning a jacket, be cautious on buttonholes as the faux leather could "shred" with the thousands of needle holes. Do you know how to make bound buttonholes? If you decide to make regular buttonholes, be sure to stabilize the back. When pressing, no steam and keep your iron heat no higher than mid range.

----

For faux suede, the biggest initial problem is that it's very stiff and doesn't like to ease or drape, so pre-wash/dry it as many times as you can tolerate doing it. I mean, really many times - until it finally softens a good bit. Once, I washed/dried 8x before it finally succumbed.

Use a teflon foot, and if it wants to "ripple," switch to a walking foot. Use a really sharp, piercing needle like a denim needle, a topstitch needle, or if you use a regular needle, make sure it's brand new. But don't use a 90; use regular 80 or if the faux suede is thin, a 70. Use a standard stitch length. If you topstitch, lengthen your stitch.

Since faux suede hates to ease, watch your sleeve choice. Dolman, raglan, or if you use a set in sleeve, choose a dropped shoulder design as this design always comes with a sleeve cap that is much flatter. Likewise, don't choose a very fitted jacket as you'll be disappointed in the drape. Pants or straight skirts sew up beautifully with faux suede. Glue your hems.

It presses well (temp not too high, though) and use a press cloth and some steam.

Hope that helps, Kate








-- Edited on 8/27/06 9:54 AM --

BJ1400
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BJ1400
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In reply to KAB


Date: 8/27/06 10:03 AM

Thanks, Kate. I was wondering if I should prewash it.

------
Beverly.

Sewing Makes Me Happy

http://bjsewmuchmore.blogspot.com

RuthieSews
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RuthieSews
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UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 1/1/06
Posts: 1293
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Date: 8/27/06 3:33 PM

Kate,

Thanks for the tips! I will review anything I actually sew up.
I did sew faux leather once before and the main problem was the foot sticking on the shiny side, but I've since got the teflon foot which I hope will help.

I'm guessing that pin and stitch holes will show in the fabric so I should cut out with weights, pin only in the seam allowances and not alter too much!

------
Sewing in Derbyshire, England
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.com/

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