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Message Board > Sewing Techniques and Tips > How do you line up plaid sleeves in a jacket? ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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How do you line up plaid sleeves in a jacket?
tentmaker
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tentmaker
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 8/3/06
Posts: 4
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Date: 8/29/06 8:07 PM

Hi:
I am making a jacket and for the first time I am using a plaid
fabric. I have always avoided plaids because I had a bad experience with it many years ago. I cut out all the pieces except the sleeves. I have interfaced the jacket and and am up to the step to set in the sleeve. I just don't know how to
match it up and have dug up my sewing books and have not found an explaination of matching the sleeve. So far I have matched everything else up, but I am stumped. Help.....

Jackie

BetsyV

BetsyV  Friend of PR
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MA USA
Member since 7/4/05
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In reply to tentmaker


Date: 8/29/06 8:42 PM

Jackie

This summer I had a complicated fabric to mach, not a plaid, but I was very afraid of it, also.

I matched the notch in the front armscye to the notch in the sleeve front - as if you were matching the sleeve to its armhole. Since you have put the jacket body together, this is going to be a little tricky. It worked perfectly for me, I did cut the sleeves out last but at the same time as I cut the rest of the dress pattern.

Here is the link to my photo album of the project. Layout 6 shows how I matched the sleeve piece.

My Dress

Hope this helps - BetsyV

twistedangel
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twistedangel
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CA USA
Member since 7/18/05
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In reply to tentmaker


Date: 8/29/06 8:42 PM

If it is the shoulder cap you're after, the answer to this lies in the pattern itself.

Some couture and designer garments can have plaids that line up because the pattern was drafted that way.

To see if it is going to work for you, you will need to transfer where the stripes cross the seamline at the armhole to the sleeve piece (also at the seamlines). You then take this pattern piece and overlap it onto your fabric and see if you can get the stripes to cross anywhere near where you need them to. Sometimes you can fudge the ease and make it work, or even play around with the sleeve cap fullness.

Otherwise, you will have to suck it up and go without matching plaids.

------
My website: http://www.twistedangel.us.com

tlmck3
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tlmck3
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IL USA
Member since 7/11/05
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Date: 8/29/06 9:57 PM

This was one of the more brilliant discussions Kathleen Fasanella--a professional patternmaker who hosts an excellent, informative and generous blog- posted on her Fashion Incubator site a few months ago. I'm not sure if this will help you with your current matching problem, but it's a great explanation of the whole subject of sleeve caps and ease and how "matching" is the patternmaker's business and why it is so difficult for those who sew at home -with pictures.


Fashion Incubator archive--sleeve cap ease is bogus

------
I am going for a level of perfection that is only mine... Most of the pleasure is in getting that last little piece perfect...Inspiration is for amateurs. The rest of us just keep showing up and doing the work.

Chuck Close, painter, printmaker, photographer

Hope has two lovely daughters: Anger and Courage

St. Augustine

marjoryt
marjoryt
Expert/Couture
MS USA
Member since 8/1/06
Posts: 274
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Subject: get the top right, fudge the side notches Date: 8/29/06 10:55 PM

That's what my mom taught me, and she actually LIKED sewing plaids. She would figure what main plaid line would be on the front top (right at the seam line). That equivalent line would be the same line the top center of the sleeve. Next, she tried to match up the side notches - and she would be willing to take the center top over just a little one side or another to get the front side notches closer.

For a 2 piece sleeve, you do the same, and match that back sleeve notch to whatever the back piece notch will be.

The bigger the plaid, the more fudge may be needed. Put the emphasis on the top and side, and like the Mary's little lamb, the rest will come tagging after.

PatM

PatM  Friend of PR
Intermediate
AUSTRALIA
Member since 12/31/02
Posts: 365
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In reply to tentmaker


Date: 8/30/06 6:06 AM

These might sound a bit obvious
Worry about the front only.
Does the plaid have a colour which stands out. for my DDs I make school uniform dresses from, black watch tartin, mainly bottle green and black plaid with fine yellow stripe. I aimed to match this yellow stripe.
Find the place where this colour occurs on the front, on the seam line, between the notch and the start of the easing.
Mark the same point on the seamline of the sleeve pattern.
Cut your pattern so that the colour matches on the seamline.
Why did I bother the RTW dresses di not match on the side seams or the sleeves, adn sometimes not the the zip zt the centr back.

------
Pat
In Adelaide now

Janie Viers
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Janie Viers  Friend of PR
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Date: 8/30/06 10:40 AM

Do you have enough fabric to cut the sleeve on the bias? That can add a really interesting texture to a jacket, especially if you use bias details other places on the garment.

------
JanieV

tentmaker
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tentmaker
Intermediate
TX USA
Member since 8/3/06
Posts: 4
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Date: 8/30/06 11:42 AM

I am beginning to believe that I can't match up the sleeves and maybe I will take the advice of cutting them on the bias.
Did you read the discussion about the "spray can skirt" at anthropoligie. I think the skirt was $248.00 and it was all cut off grain. Part of it looked like bias, but none of the pieces matched. Anyway, I should have chosen some other fabric, as the Jacket I am making was supposed to be a wearable muslin and I am only making this jacket to try out the pattern for fit. I shouldn't be spending so much time fussing about the sleeve. I am not even going to put lining in it.
Thanks...I really got a lot out of that article from Kathleen F.
Now I am going back to my sewing room and look at the sleeve pattern and just wing it.

Wish me luck

Jackie

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